by Bennett Kalafut

Created on: July 16, 2010

Although mild in flavor when compared to venison or full-grown mutton, lamb has a "gamy" flavor, considerably stronger than beef or even bison, that demands pairing with a strongly-flavored red wine.  With only a couple of exceptions, white and rosé wines are out of the question.  A meal of lamb is an excuse to serve bold red wines that may have been impressive at the tasting room but don't pair well with anything else.

Pinot Noir is the classic pairing with lamb.  An earthy Burgundy or New World Pinot Noir can be paired with the most delicate lamb dishes, especially simple preparations of loin chops, but can seem insipid when paired with shank, shoulder, or anything rubbed with rosemary, lavender (in "herbes de provence"), or thyme.  Châteauneuf-du-Pape, similarly earthy but with leather undertones, more robust flavor, and often herbal notes, is an almost perfect match for fuller-flavored lamb dishes, and it's difficult to go wrong pairing often simpler Syrah ("Shiraz") from just about anywhere with lamb.  Zinfandel, especially spicier-tasting high-tannin warm-climate Zins, is also a "surefire" lamb pairing.

Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet blends (including reds from Bordeaux) are so variable in quality and taste that they cannot be as strongly recommended as a pairing with lamb.  Light-tasting, one-note, six-dollar Cabernet Sauvignon from a grocery store may go well with a hamburger or steak but do not suit lamb at all.  But more expensive Cabs with a bit more structure, be they brash and somewhat jammy varietal Cab Franc or more subtle Cabernet Sauvignon or blends, can go very will with roasted or grilled lamb.  Perhaps more importantly, herb-rubbed lamb is one of the few dishes that can do these wines justice, so take the opportunity to serve them.

The red wines recommended above pair with lamb stews and braises in addition to kebabs, roasts, and grilled chops, but white wines, with their acid content, can hold up better against protein- or fat-rich sauces and pair much better with any tomatoes or tomato juice that may be in the recipe.  Moreover, on a hot summer day, a cold wine can be a far better choice than a merely cool one, and none of the strong reds recommended above are chillable.  Fortunately for us there are two exceptional white wines robust enough to be paired with lamb.  Fino sherry, such as Sandeman's Don Fino, has enough aged earthy, citrus, nutty, and vegetal

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