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Restaurant reviews: Nineteen, York, UK

by Author Name Withheld 125

Created on: July 13, 2010   Last Updated: July 14, 2010

Much is said of the building occupied by current incumbents, Nineteen restaurant. Dating back to the 14th Century and a long and varied history including that of a, ahem, ‘Gentlemans Club’, Nineteen, Grape Lane, York now hosts one of the best restaurants in the city. Phillip Upton, chef and patron, has worked in various high-class eating establishments and strives to bring the best in local produce to his plates.

Inside, it’s all wooden floors and modern, high-backed leather chairs and these look wonderful set against the weathered beams of times gone past.

It’s worth mentioning we had tried to eat here previously on a particular busy Saturday night and were none-too-surprised to be turned away (in the nicest possible way of course) so on the off-chance, we tried our luck on a Friday lunchtime in the middle of July. The place was empty which was good news for us but not so much for Chef Upton.

Nineteen has a few menus to choose from, the Epicure A La Carte being the main, grandiose, evening meal. There is also a Ladies Lunch early-bird menu (at £9.95 for 2 courses, £13.95 for 3) and a Yorkshire Bites menu available for £10 for 3 different dishes. There’s also an 8-course tasting menu that looks the bees-knees and weighs in at a hefty 50 quid per head.

Being lunch, we went for the lighter options. From a small Ladies Lunch menu (also available to Gentlemen apparently), my wife chose the Crayfish and Spring Onion Risotto, followed by Corn Beef Hash with Poached Egg and Pea Shoots. I went for the Yorkshire Bites menu, opting for Soup of the day (Butternut Squash), Black Pudding pie and Fish Finger and Chips. I had a choice of 9 different items for my platter and I had a hard time deciding what to choose.

Drinks were dispatched and my good lady’s starter came very attractively presented and piping hot. It tasted as good as it looked and it was nice to see risotto being cooked with more than a little care and attention. It had succulent vegetables running through and the crayfish were cooked to perfection. A glorious starter and we had a duelling spoons moment as we both tucked in with free abandon.

Our expectations were raised somewhat and when the main courses arrived, they looked pretty as a picture. There was some real care in the presentation, my dish was even served on a wooden platter and my fish finger and chips came in a mocked-up newspaper cone. A nice touch.

The proof is all in the tasting and we were

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