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Restaurant reviews: Frankie & Benny's, Doncaster, UK

by Author Name Withheld 125

Created on: June 21, 2010

Frankie and Benny's in Doncaster is in a slightly weird location.  Situated twixt a multiplex cinema and bowling alley, it's a little out of the way for the casual diner.  It's stood the test of time though, surviving several changes of hand at the revolving door cinema.  The decor is pleasant, convivial, warm and a good view of the open plan kitchen is offered.  A nice touch, lending to the grill-like ambiance.

Chain restaurants often leave a lot to be desired and rely on lazy and uninspired cooking (ping and ding) to feed the masses.  Would Frankie and Benny's resort to these underhand tactics or would they inspire and titillate our taste buds like any good Italian restaurant should?

Cunningly, Frankie and Benny's were offering a dads-eat-for-free offer on Fathers Day and maybe that would explain the buzzing atmosphere and full restaurant.  Luckily, we had anticipated the rush and pre-booked our table and in no time at all, were quickly seated with high-chair in situ.  

The menu is large, literally and figuratively.  Rolf Harris' wobble board makes another appearance.  The style of the food is more accurately described as Italian American as opposed to just Italian.  There's a difference.  Posh burgers and ribs make an appearance alongside the ubiquitous pizza and pasta dishes.  There is a risotto dish described as Mediterranean as it was cooked in a tomato and white wine sauce.  Alarm bells started ringing.

Ignoring any faux pas with the risotto, instead I went for the garlic mushrooms to start followed by the full rack of barbecue ribs for main.  My wife chose the chicken strips and then lasagne.  Kids went for spaghetti bolognaise and sausage and mash.

Considering how full the restaurant was, service was rapid.  With two hungry kids climbing the walls (again, literally and figuratively), we were thankful of the plates of food to keep them occupied.  My garlic mushrooms, finished in a cream sauce were surprisingly delicious.  Lots of garlic, seasoning and the normally vapid button mushrooms were elevated somewhat.  The toasted ciabatta bread had only been waved vaguely in the direction of the toaster and should have been more crispy.  It ended up soggy and didn't quite provide the texture counterpoint I was expecting.  A good dish, none-the-less.

The chicken strips were disappointingly of the breaded, frozen variety, which was a shame.  The

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