by Yve Goodwin

Created on: June 16, 2010   Last Updated: June 23, 2010

World War ll had a dramatic impact on the fashion industry worldwide.  After the Nazis occupied Paris on June 14th 1940, several couture houses closed down and many of the top designers either retired, or went into exile. Few fashion houses continued.  They worked mainly for wealthy collaborators, or exported designs to Germany.  Expensive fabrics such as silks and lace were no longer available in Paris; dyes and ordinary fabrics were also restricted.  However some French designers chose to ignore the German restrictions, and in France styles such as; full skirts, high-heeled shoes, silk blouses and marabou coats were only available to those who could afford them.

In Britain and abroad fabrics were difficult to find. The “make do, and mend” movement evolved with propaganda ads that encouraged working women to sew their own clothes from recycled textiles.  This idea was nothing new to working class women. Those who could sew were able to scrape together remnants of blackout material and silk or nylon parachutes to sew into dresses, and blankets into coats.  Other recycled materials that were also used included; pillowcases, milk top discs and yarn.  Nothing was wasted, as materials were in short supply.  Fancy clothes were out. Utility clothing such as; trousers, short skirts, square shaped shouldered jackets with cinched in waistlines and sensible “flat-heeled” footwear became the norm for the working class; as women began taking on the dual role of both caregiver and home-provider.  With the lack of creative inspiration coming from war torn Paris, American designers had the freedom to develop their own style.  Since the U.S. did not have as many restrictions, the American women who could afford it enjoyed tailored suits, fur collars, stylish hats, gold jewellery, pee-a-boo platform heels and nylon stockings in all colours and patterns.

For women of influence, the look was professionalism, with polished refinement.  Clothing for daytime work, with tailored tweed coats and suits, black leather gloves, flowing skirts, ribbon fur collars and scarves, thin belts, berets, fedoras, wide brimmed hats and doctor’s bags were the rage.  Night time was playful and carefree while jitter-bugging the wartime woes away in flowing sequined dresses, patterned nylons and glittery peek-a-boo high-heeled shoes with sequined purses.

Wartime films were made popular due to a sense of renewed

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