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Travel guide: Belagio,Italy

by Janet Sandford

Created on: June 09, 2010

The town of Bellagio certainly lives up to its name. Its dramatic location at the point where Lake Como and lake Lecco divide combines with the panorama, the villas and the gardens to produce an unforgettable sight.. The Romans called it Bilacus ( 'between the lakes'). The promontory is best approached by boat, and it is clear why Flaubert wrote on voudrait vivre ici et y mourir ('one would like to live and die here') when he first caught sight of Bellagio.

The tiny Borgo (medieval village) lies on the western side of the narrow peninsula. Narrow flights of steps lead up from the lake promenade to the 11th century parish church of San Giacomo, built by the Maestri Comacini. This three aisled Romanesque structure with its 17th century tower contains a very expressive Entombment attributed to Perugino (circa 1500).

Villas and Parks:

The famous villas and parks of Bellagio have a varied history, such as the one surrounding the Villa Giulia on the eastern side of the peninsula, formerly the residence of Belgium King Leopold I and today in private hands. On the hill above the town is the Villa Serbelloni (guided tours only of the gardens Apr-Oct, Tues-Sun at 11am and 3.30pm), originally Renaissance but with neo-classical additions. One of the two villas owned by Pliny the Younger formerly stood on this site; later on it was converted into a Lombard fortress.

The entrance to the second large park in Bellagio, the one surrounding the Villa Melzi (open late March - end Oct, 9am-6pm) is located in the suburb of Loppia on the road to Como. The elegant neoclassical villa was built in 1815 and is still privately owned, hence much of it is out of bounds to visitors. The park, dotted with statues, has a marvellous collection of exotic plants. Another romantic place is the Bucodei Carpi, a cavern down by the lake 5km out of Bellagio in the direction of Como, with attractive light effects reminiscent of the Blue Grotto on Capri.

Super views:

Alongside its villas and parks, Bellagio also has mountains, and the steep and rocky hinterland is ideal for hikers and excursions. Try a drive up to the Madonna del Ghisallo (755 metres) via Civenna, a delightful resort above the eastern arm of the Lario. The best place for a view of the triangle formed by Como, Lecco and Bellagio is the Monte San Primo (1,168 metres), which offers a breathtaking panorama. The path to the summit can be reached by driving south from Bellagio and turning right in Guello

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