by Leonard J Sherrott

Created on: March 25, 2010

Port Campbell is a small town nestled in a pretty corner of the Great Ocean Road, some two hundred and eighty kilometers west of Melbourne. Despite the numerous times I have visited the popular seaside town, never had I enjoyed it as much as my recent weekend in January this year.

Shipwrecks have always held a fascination for me and the little hamlet lies along that portion known as the Shipwreck coast, separated from King island to the south by the notoriously unpredictable Bass strait where dozens of ships have been lost over a century and a half. The adventure was highlighted by the fact that my companion, on business from Devon  UK,  is a great grandson of a survivor of one of those wrecks. The Loch Ard sank meters from the coastline on June 1st 1878, after being disoriented in a sea mist. Only two survivors made it to the beach via the gorge now named after the fateful vessel.

So the scene was set for an interesting weekend and we made the most of it. Port Campbell  Boat Charters generously hosted us on a cruise along the coastline where it was possible to experience the fragility of the limestone cliffs from which fallen rocks dotted the beaches below.  Our chaperone Phillip Younis was extremely knowledgeable about the geological formations and of course, the town history.  Normally, the exhilarating trip would cost fifty dollars per head and is always subject to the changing tides.Scuba diving is avilable to visit  the wrecks.

Suffice to say, Phil's introduction to the coastline was a delightful entrée for a historical forty eight hour visit. Through the assistance of his brother Peter, We were able to visit the Glenample Homestead, where Tom Pearce and Eva Carmichael had been taken after their rescue from the Loch Ard Gorge.  Today, the homestead is closed to the public, but hopefully will re-open sometime in the future.  In 1878 The property was part owned by Scottish graziers Hugh Gibson and Peter Macarthur. Inside, there are subtle indications of its former grandeur.

 Having checked into our hotel, we drove seventy kilometers to Warrnambool, the home of Flagstaff Hill Museum , where a sound and light show capped off a brilliant day. The museum houses many relics from the Loch Ard and other wrecks from the area. Miraculously, a porcelain statue of a peacock which stands intact four feet eleven inches high is proudly displayed. It was recovered from the same gorge where a ship was dashed against rocks and fifty two people perished.   

 The following day, I enjoyed my first ever flight in a helicopter over the coastline we had previously obsverved.  It became glaringly obvious why so many ships foundered along the rugged shore .

 Sunday came and it was time to return to Melbourne. Bill insisted on seeing the Cape Otway Lighthouse along the way. The light station is located approximately twelve kilometers off the Main road. By the time we left the Port Campbell Township, taking in the many tourist spots along the way, it was getting late. Nevertheless, there was one more surprise in store for both of us.

Dusk came and the light was sufficient enough to enable one good photograph and move on. As we travelled back along the lonely Cape Otway Road, koala spotting entered our list of to dos.  Bill spotted one and we stopped. Within half an hour of observing furry blobs in distant trees, a very large female descended just meters away and sat in the middle of the road posing for the cameras. Three minutes later, she departed in search of the male who had caught her attention and availed us of such a great opportunity.  

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