by Victoria Hunter

Created on: February 24, 2010   Last Updated: February 25, 2010

If the notion of forcing a spring bulb brings images of your hands around the neck of a daffodil tuber, you have the right idea. Forcing a bulb convinces it to bloom on your clock, not nature’s. If left to its own devices the spring bulb will sit in the ground in the winter, dormant. As the soil begins to warm in the spring, roots begin to develop,  fueled by the food stored in the bulb. Eventually the shoots will break from the soil, followed by flowers. By fall, the foliage dies off and the cycle begins again. Forcing bulbs indoors mimics this pattern, giving the avid gardener, craving the smell of dirt through the long months of winter a vaccine against spring fever.

The most popular and easy-to-force bulbs include tulips, daffodils, paperwhites and iris.  Consider growing ornamental onions or snowdrops for a break from the traditional spring flowers.  Check the bulb’s packaging for chilling requirements. Some bulbs come “pre-chilled” and are ready to pot up. Others require 30 to 45 days in the refrigerator in order to trick them out of dormancy.

Planters
As long as the container you choose has holes in the bottom for proper drainage, almost anything will work like a planter. Common choices include metal, clay, glass and plastic. You can purchase specialty pots and vases at gardening centers, but  they aren't necessary.

Soil
The bulb contains all the nutrients the plant needs to develop, so rich soil mixes are a waste of money.  You do need a medium that drains quickly and easily. Too much moisture and you run the risk of the bulb rotting.  A good, basic soil mix includes equal parts of potting soil and perlite.

Planting
Pour the planting mix into the pot until it is 3/4 full. You may need to modify this, depending upon the size of the bulb. When finished, you will need the soil within one half inch of the rim of the pot, and the tips of the bulbs exposed. Lay the bulbs, close together, on top of the soil and then cover lightly with more soil.   Finally, give the pot a thorough soaking, until the water runs from the bottom of the container.

Chilling Period
You won't need to chill paperwhite narcissus bulbs.  The rest require darkness, in an area that remains 40 to 45 degrees F, for a period of 12 to 16 weeks. You can set the pot in a sheltered space outdoors, or in the refrigerator. Check the soil periodically to ensure that it remains moist. Once you see roots from the bottom of the pot, or new growth sprouting from the bulb, it’s OK to take them out of the cold.

The next step includes placing them in an area of low to medium light and temperatures of 50 to 60 degrees F. When the foliage turns green, usually within a week, it’s time to give them more light, and more heat: 60 to 65 degrees. Spring bulbs will bloom within three to four weeks after removal from chilling.

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