by Carole Somerville

Created on: February 16, 2010

A guide to Scottish Highland Dress

One of the most romantic, powerful and dramatic of the symbols of Scotland is the Highland dress recognised throughout the world as Scotland’s national costume.

Today’s kilt, often worn by pipers with a plaid (a long piece of tartan wrapped across the upper part of the body) is a modern version of the “feileadh mor” of old.

According to Matthew A Newsome’s book “Early Highland Dress” the kilt is a remnant of the early Celtic race of Caledonia. The Highlanders of old wore a “feileadh mhor” which is Gaelic for a large piece of woollen tartan material. This will have served a double purpose for the campaigning Scots. They will have wrapped it around their bodies by day, having it belted at the waist and pinned over the shoulder. By night it will have served as a warm blanket. The word “plaid” is from the Gaelic “plaide” meaning blanket. Ancient Celts and Highlanders also wore tight trousers (or “truis”) which were particularly practical when on horseback.

The way in which the Highland Dress has progressed over the centuries reflects the proud character of the Scottish race, their instinct to congregate within family clans or district clans while looking to their Chief as leader. Loyalty to this clan system has influenced Highland Dress and made it a symbol of national pride and brotherhood.

Full Highland Dress, which is evening wear at its finest, is now most likely to be worn on formal occasions and weddings. This would consist of a kilt with kilt pin, a winged-collar white dress shirt and black bow tie. Over this will be a kilt jacket. The kilt will have a dress sporran. Flashes which might match or contrast with the kilt’s tartan are worn on the kilt hose and tucked into the kilt hose is the “Sgiian Dubh” or ornamental knife. Kilt shoes or Ghilie Brogues are worn on the feet. A full plaid (a length of tartan) might also be worn to finish off the outfit.

Formal Highland Dress for ladies depends upon the fashion of the time. A dress should be chosen to compliment the tartan that is being worn. A little convention related to the female Highland dress is that the wives of Chiefs and of the Colonel of the Regiment of Scottish regiments all wear their plaids over the left shoulder. All others wear the sash pinned on the right shoulder.

So traditionally, only clan Chiefs and Commanders of military regiments (and their wives)

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