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A guide to Scottish tartans

by Beth Mckinney

Created on: February 14, 2010   Last Updated: February 15, 2010

"Nowhere beats the heart so kindly,” wrote Scottish poet William Aytoun, “ . . . as beneath the tartan plaid." For many, the tartan represents family. For others, it represents heritage. Even a small scrap of tartan pattern carries the memory of Scotland's struggles and a sense of connection to what makes Scotland great.

The History of the Scottish Tartan

Although tartans may have been worn thousands of years ago, the Scottish tartan probably came into wide use some time during the 1600s. At that time, each community may have had its own weaver, who probably made his garments from the materials and dyes within his reach.

In this way, specific patterns became connected to specific groups. Eventually, the pattern was varied for people of different rank, and finally, it came to represent certain clans. Identifying fellow clan members was important since warfare between the clans was frequent.

Eventually several clans came together against the British throne. The uprising came to a head at the Battle of Culloden in 1746. The Scots were brutally defeated and the angry king set out to dismantle the clan system in order to prevent more attacks.

”No man or boy, within that part of Great Britain called Scotland,” read the Act of Proscription, “will wear or put on the clothes commonly called Highland Clothes . . . and no tartan. . . shall be used."

By the early 1800s, however, royal fear of Scottish unity had mostly been forgotten. Sir Walter Scott's novels of Scotland's historic past had led to a revival of interest in Scottish heritage.

Several Highland Societies had been formed to research ethnic traditions and reconstruct tartan patterns. When King George IV came to visit Scotland in 1822, Scottish chieftains were invited to attend royal events in their best tartans.

Scottish Clan Tartans

These events worked together to create a great interest in tartans. Today, tartan manufacturers are abundant and members of many clans can easily find their family pattern. The Hunting Stewart, a green tartan with black, yellow and red stripes may be among the most familiar, since it is often worn by Scots with no clan association.

Most clan tartans come in several varieties. There are about 20 different tartans for the various Stewart and Stuart families, including the Royal Stuart tartan, which is usually worn only by the ruling family.

Most clan tartans have a “dress” variety, which usually uses lighter colors for the background, and

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