Your azalea has outgrown its present location, and you have found the perfect spot for a transplant. The autumn temperatures have cooled and the rain has replenished the soil. Now is the perfect time to move your plant to its new home. With proper care, your azalea - any of a number of species of the Rhodoendron genus with deciduous leaves - will thrive with little or no transplant shock.
Removing from Original Soil
Azaleas transplant best in the fall or early spring, before temperatures reach 80 degrees F. Choose the coolest times of the day –early morning or late afternoon – or an overcast day, to minimize wilting. To transplant a small azalea, simply dig up a root ball which is disproportionately large for the plant. For a larger azalea, more work is required: first, dig a 12 inch deep circle at a 1 ½ foot radius around the trunk. Gently remove soil from the root system by tapping the roots with the edge of the shovel.
Transporting
Once the roots are freed from the soil, the azalea can be moved. To avoid damage, do not lift or carry the plant by the trunk or branches. The azalea can be carried by the root mass onto a tarp and then moved with the tarp. Another method is to place a burlap square at the base of the root mass and carefully rock the plant onto the burlap. After tightly wrapping the burlap around the root mass, tie the corners of the square together. Lift the azalea by the burlap. If you are transporting the azalea a long distance, moisten the burlap with water to protect the roots from drying out. If you cannot replant immediately, water the root ball slowly and thoroughly every 1 or 2 days until you replant.
Replanting
At its new location, your azalea will need moist, well-drained soil. If the soil is heavy, add up to 50% organic matter (such as pine bark or decayed leaves); avoid alkaline material or fresh manure. Dig a hole several inches wider than the root mass, and the same depth as the hole at the original location. Lift the azalea by the burlap covering and place in the hole so that the top of the root mass is level with the top of the soil. Genuine jute burlap will decompose in the soil; if the burlap is made of natural fiber, loosen the square and push it down into the soil. If it is plastic, the burlap must be removed. If more soil is needed, add soil to the bottom of the hole, to prevent the plant from sinking later on. Add just enough soil to cover the root mass, and tamp gently to remove air pockets. Water slowly and thoroughly; if soil settles, add more soil.
For a few weeks, water once every week. If you transplant in the spring, the stronger sunlight may cause wilting; water the second day if necessary. Add a covering of mulch (2 inches of pine bark or wood chips, or 4 inches of pine needles or oak leaves) loose enough for air and water to reach the soil. If you transplant in the fall, water once a week during winter dry spells.
An azalea requires careful handling during a transplant. Knowledge of these practical steps will make a smooth transition for your azalea, and keep your plant healthy for many seasons.
Sources:
Azalea Society of America. Planting Azaleas, http://www.azaleas.org/index.pl/faq.html#pla (accessed February 5, 2010).
Azalea Society of America. Transplanting Azaleas, http://www.azaleas.org/index.pl/faq.html#tra (accessed February 5, 2010).
Encyclopedia.com. Azalea, http://www.encyclopedia.com/topic/azalea.aspxAzalea (accessed February 7, 2010).
United States National Arboretum. Shocking Behavior: Transplanting Your Azaleas, http://www.usna.usda.gov/Gardens/faqs/azaleatranspla nt.html (accessed February 5, 2010).