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Best ways to prepare your lawn for the spring

by Mittzi Fulrath

Created on: February 20, 2007   Last Updated: March 21, 2007

This information brought to you by a REAL lawn and tree care professional...

First point that needs to be made is that this article is in reference to the Midwestern United States area. We are dealing with northern turfgrasses here and it does make a difference what you do compared to southern areas.

First thing to do to your lawn in the spring is to give a lower nitrogen amount than other times of the year, and to apply a fertilizer containing a "Pre-emergent" for Crabgrass and other weeds. It is extremely important that you apply it at the recommended rate and the correct time. I suggest applying about 3/4 pounds of nitrogen per 1000 square feet with a pre-emergent in late April in the Midwest. Too early, and the effectiveness will wear off before the Crabgrass germinates, and too late and you will miss germination. DO NOT apply a "Post-emergent" at this time! It will not be very effective, if at all. A pre-emergent is the first step in controlling broadleaf and annual grassy weeds though, so do not despair.

Once the ground temps reach 55-60 degrees, go ahead and aerate and apply broadleaf weed control. This usually occurs in late May, you should also aerate by then, using a "Core" Aerator. Don't seed now though, the pre-emergent will also block this grass seed. Fall is the best time to overseed an existing lawn. If you have larger bare areas, do not apply the pre-emergent there, use a "starter" fertilizer with low nitrogen and higher phosphorus and potassium, and DO overseed the areas AFTER core aeration. Leaving larger areas open will invite weed infestation due to no competition from turfgrasses.

If the "thatch" layer, or dead grass, is more than one inch thick, you should dethatch the lawn BEFORE you do anything else, but wait until AFTER the threat of frost has passed.

Water as needed aside from rain as long as you get one inch of water per week on the lawn. Use a tuna can or rain gauge to measure. If you have seeded, you will have to water heavily after seeding, until you can easily poke a pen or stick six inches into the ground. Then you will need to water lightly as many or as few times as needed per day, to make sure the ground is kept moist.

Mow first time at 2 1/2 inches, and raise mower deck as temperatures rise, up to 3 1/2 or 4 inches in summer.

Wait, and watch, enjoy, and apply fertilizer again in six weeks. More info to come then...

Thank you, and I hope this helps!~

Learn more about this author, Mittzi Fulrath.
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