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A visitor's guide to Beauvais, France

by Sandra Sheridan

Created on: January 22, 2010   Last Updated: January 23, 2010

Some destinations offer a range of sights and experiences that prompt you to pack up for a long weekend or week.  Others provide simple pleasures and a break from routine.  Beauvais, France, a mere 56 miles (80 km) and a quick train ride north of Paris, falls into the latter.  The capitol of the Oise Department, the town of 60,000 offers some interesting moments and a pleasant change, perhaps, from the throb of life in Paris. 

Beauvais lies at the foot of wooded hills and is surrounded by boulevards and spacious pedestrian walkways.  The city suffered considerable destruction during World Wars I and II, but some interesting discoveries remain, highlighted by metal markers in the pavement that show the way. 

Without question, the massive Cathedrale Saint-Pierre is a stunning Gothic sight that will draw your eye and imagination.  Partially completed and victim of too many overzealous plans and ensuing collapses, the building dates from the 14th century and includes lovely wood carvings and wildly colorful stained glass windows.  Said to be the largest of its kind (and oldest working, chiming clock), the astronomical clock is a visual feast, quite lavish and designed to signal the religious offices of each day. Elegant spires, soaring Gothic ceilings and intricate stonework make the Cathedral a quiet place to reflect on the maestros who dreamed of creating the tallest of its kind in the world.  Unfortunately, the cathedral often has scaffolding in place, but ignore it and forge ahead!

While post-war reconstruction efforts don’t equal the charm of a traditional, old world town of France, Beauvais is clean and pleasant with a mix of medieval, half-timbered houses and tree-lined neighborhoods.  Cultural events center around art, music and the celebration of Beauvais history.  The local textile museum invokes the importance Beauvais gained as a center for the textile industry, ultimately with tapestry exports reaching as far as the Orient.  The town heroine is Jeanne Hachette who helped to save Beauvais from the assault of Charles le Temeraire in 1472.  Knit together these pieces of history, and you begin to understand the great local pride as one of France’s oldest cities.

You may wish to try a pleasant local choice for lunch - Le Relais d'Alsace Beauvais; or if you visit on Wednesday or Saturday, you’ll find the local market at place de Halles with excellent choices to pick up fresh meal items.  Otherwise, take your own picnic lunch, wander the streets, go by the church of Saint Etienne and simply enjoy the city that residents have rebuilt to make their lives a pleasant, livable place in the shadow of the majestic cathedral.


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