by Ralph Lawrence

Created on: January 09, 2010

Winter’s Blessing

The magnificent backdrop of fall, sunny but cool days with glorious golds and reds, has ceded its place to black skies laden with brilliant stars and chilling sullen days. Cooks everywhere transition their slow autumn pace of meals still cooked on a grill or tenderly nursed in a snug kitchen. Saying goodbye to the spontaneous bounties of harvest is not easy, but an invitation to cozy soups and stews, roasted meats with hearty vegetables spur us to retrace our steps back into the pantry to savor old friends and the new season’s flavors and textures.

Many initiate change by working on ideas of ingredients gently gathered for just such times. Treasures preserved, summer’s generosity flash frozen and the first appearance of hardy greens, apples and mushrooms offer cooks a base of challenges different from the fast, easy seafood salads, antipastos and summer’s expansive ingredients. At farmer’s markets, root vegetables, gourds and greens are showcased for kitchen projects. In addition, butchers are collecting oft ignored meats and game to add diversity to the winter’s menu. A prized butcher will be able to provide a dazzling assortment of fresh sausages to enhance one’s table. Pheasant, duck and other game birds nicely dressed require little else than to be ensconced in a meat pie with carrots, leeks and onions.

Diehard grilling fans usually keep it going even as the temperatures plummet. But  the majority choose roasting which suits dense vegetables and larger cuts of meats and game.Vegetables become sugary and caramelized, while roasts cook evenly and crusty, protecting the succulent interior. Who could resist a wonderful roast chicken, beef or lamb with earthy mushrooms, creamy potatoes and tender steamed Brussels sprouts dusted with nutmeg?

With branches barren and unfriendly winds wrapping themselves around anything daring to be vertical, the time has arrived for serving a true health food, soup. What else allows the use of legumes, whole grains, vegetables and meat? Cauliflower, butternut squash and leafy greens are strong enough to stand alone but shine when combined with grains or meat, producing a satisfying dish that is low-calorie and high in water and fiber. For those who are vegans, such a starter combined with an organic winter salad and a whole grain bread offer taste, fulfillment and loyalty to their code. Simple fresh pastas are well served combined with squash, pumpkin or wilted greens, then covered with a snowy blanked of grated cheese.

The chef who is looking to add fresh elements might investigate items like endive, kale, chard, celeriac, beets and assorted gourds, which offer taste and texture. Old favorites potatoes, turnips, parsnips and carrots provide substance and depth when there is a roast or a bird as star of the show. Let us not forget eggplant, broccoli and cabbage, our most common winter friends. 
When shopping, a seemingly infinite variety of apples and pears offer cooks unlimited latitude between dinner or dessert. Cobblers, fools and crisps are nice, maybe some berries rescued from summer to dress a pudding or ice cream. Afterwards, a tray of assorted nuts and dates, pomegranates or figs with coffee or tea fittingly end the festivities. Don’t forget new wine, ciders and dark beer too.

In closing, choose a greengrocer or produce vendor known for quality and variety. The freshest of the bunch will cost more but the results will be incomparable. Each ingredient purchased with care and concern will only serve to enhance the satisfaction of the cook and the gratitude of the guest.

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