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The Way of the Island

He's from the mainland, and hasn't yet got the Way of the Island'
(Pub landlord on another Hebridean island,
explaining the brusque, aggressive
manner of the island's policeman)

The Way of the Island of Tiree starts at Oban, on Scotland's west coast. From here, the Caledonian MacBrayne ferry sails four times weekly to Tiree, the outermost island of the Inner Hebrides, calling at... depending on the day of the week ... Tobermory and Coll. If you're in a hurry, there's a daily flight to Tiree from Glasgow. But, few people in the Islands hurry, so most prefer the leisurely cruise by CalMac'.

The boat leaves Oban at an extremely anti-social early hour. But, in these latitudes, dawn breaks early, and the Sound of Mull, between that island and the mainland, looks peaceful and calm in the early light.

By the time Tobermory is reached, it may be warm enough to sunbathe on an upper deck, with a pair of binoculars close to hand for watching dolphins and porpoises playing about the ship. Occasionally, there may be a larger, louder splash, and a thrill of excitement when it's you realise the big dolphin' is actually a minke whale!

There's a brief call at Coll, Tiree's neighbouring island, then, half an hour later, the boat sails into the harbour at Scarinish, Tiree's main settlement, in time for lunch.

The Hawaii of the North
The Isle of Tiree was once optimistically described the as the Hawaii of the North'. They weren't trying to promote the climate, although it can be surprisingly pleasant in Summer, but the almost ideal conditions for wind-surfing. The only other similarity with The Aloha State' is that it's said that one of Tiree's few trees is the world's northernmost palm tree!

It will take less than a day to check out the shops ... one mini-market and one gift-shop ... the restaurant and the hotel. If you want to wind-surf, the best place is usually the beach in front of the Tiree Lodge Hotel. If you don't, there's a nine-hole golf course at Vaul. The only recreational pursuits on offer are a lot of walking and exploring, or just relaxing and enjoying the peace and quiet.

You can walk almost anywhere you like. Small, scattered crofts are everywhere. Most Tireemen, or Tirisdeachs in the Gaelic, whatever their usual occupation, keep a few cows. If you do meet a farmer or a crofter, he's more likely to invite you in for a cup of tea and a chat rather than order you off his land.

Not many people could point Tiree out on a map, but it enjoys brief daily moments

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