by Martine Pauwels

Created on: December 19, 2009

I would like to discuss the possibilities of vegetable dyes, especially my favorite one: henna.

Henna (Lawsonia inermis)  is a plant that colors red. Depending on the kind of henna you can have mahogany, fiery red, auburn of copper. You also have the black henna, or indigo ( Indigofera tinctonia) . These two can mix and give shades of brown. Since henna is good for you hair and gives it a protective layer, it can also be used for repair treatment, without dying. In that case use natural, non-coloring henna. Body art henna, made for temporary tattoos,  will not be discussed here.

Mostly henna is sold in powder form. In some cases you can still get leaves. But most henna mixed for use, also contains a kind of salt, called sodium picramente. The advantage is that is will help to let the henna work faster. Since it might also dry the hair, it is recommendable to use some kind of grease, like olive oil or even better: coconut oil in your mix.

How to use henna?

You mix the powder in a bowl, best a stone, or heat proof plastic or glass one, surely no metal, unless you want to risk having green hair. Use boiling water to have a better result. If you use pure henna, without the sodium picramente, chances are you might not have a great color result. Steering can best be done with a wooden spoon. Always, wear gloves, unless you want

Also make sure that if you use the salted, dye henna, that you do put conditioner or some oil in your potion. I prefer to use coconut oil, since at room temperature, this has a solid form and it melts when pouring the hot water on. This makes a less dripping paste, that depending on the henna can remain green, but that might also become brown, deep red, or reddish brown.

The henna must be mixed with water and some other liquids that might be added, like red wine or strong tea, to give a darkening effect to the hair. Use honey or lemon juice to brighten the hair.

When you got a paste that is not to liquid, so it will not drip, but also not to solid, so you can easily smudge it, you can put it on your hair. Apply from your root to the tips. Better do that above a sink.

Also put Vaseline on your forehead and ears to avoid them dying orange. This can also be useful for other dyes. Just make sure the paste is damp and not too hot, since you do not want to get burnt.

After applying, you need to cover your head, using a plastic bag, or metallic foil, to keep the temperature for a better color result. Leave it in for half and hour till as long as you please. The longer you leave it in, the more intense the color result. Rinse out with warm water and you may also wash it with shampoo and last residues are best removed with conditioner.

What henna can't do?

Henna can not change the color of your hair. It only adds a layer to it. Since it has a build-up effect, it might cover gray hairs, but just to some percentage. White highlights can become red or dark blue, when dyeing black with indigo.

Also the effect is dependable on your own hair color. Do mind that a blond might end up with orange, or real flashy red hair. On darker colors it might have a lesser effect.

Mostly it just adds a sheen to your hair and does not change drastically.

The disadvantages?

Well, you can use henna over chemical dye, when you leave enough time in, but going back to chemical from henna is not recommendable.

Also like other dyes, henna can cause serious allergic reactions, especially the indigo or black henna, since for body art they do dare to put cheap chemicals in it.

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