by Miriam Baker

Created on: November 18, 2009

A faded blue train clunks steadily into the station, three hours late. There is a clamour as families gather their blankets and food, crowding their children forward, men hoist heavy bags on their shoulders and crates of supplies are loaded on board. Chai sellers work the train, selling hot sugary tea through the bars of open windows. Sleepy passengers lean forward, checking the name of the station. This is India, and to see it by train is to see the best and the worst of it; it is an experience not to be missed.

Tickets

Long distance trains ('sleeper' trains) in India are often fully booked weeks in advance, so it's a good idea to reserve a ticket as early as possible. Booking is available up to 90 days before travel. Reservations are made online, and can be made through a travel agent, often for a small fee, or through http://www.irctc.co.in/. The online booking system is notoriously complicated, and it's worth finding a helpful travel agent to do this for you.
Most long-distance trains have a tourist quota, a small number of seats that are made available for foreigners to travel on otherwise fully-booked trains. The 'Tatkal' system is similar, allowing travel at short notice for an extra charge. Tickets booked on both the tourist and Tatkal quota are charged at a higher rate, and tourists can often expect to pay the cost of the full train route (e.g. Calcutta to Delhi) even if they only travel part of it. There is a two-tier waiting list system on Indian trains. RAC (Reservation Against Cancellation) tickets confirm a place on board a sleeper train, though not necessarily a berth. WL (waitlisted) tickets rely on a cancellation in order to be promoted to RAC status, allowing the holder to board the train.

Seating Classes

Indian trains have eight different seating classes, ranging from the plush berths of AC1 (first class air conditioned sleeper) to the crowded scrum for unreserved seats in second class sitting carriages. Most Indians and adventurous travellers go by Sleeper class. This can get busy during the day as berths fold away to make seats, but berths are allocated so it shouldn't be overcrowded. Pack warm clothes and a blanket or sheet for the night. Air conditioning isn't essential, as the train can get quite cold at night, and the rush of air past the open windows keep the temperature cool during the day.

Safety

Despite recent attempts to make train travel safer and more pleasant for women, unwelcome male attention is common and harassment is still

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