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New trends in yarn: Recycled silk

by Erin Doherty

Created on: October 28, 2009

Many plant and animal fibers can be easily recycled. In the past, most waste fiber and yarn was recycled into decorative paper or stuffing used in pillows and children's toys. Recently, the recycling trend has extended to spinning yarn containing a percentage of pre-consumer or post-consumer waste fiber. One of the best examples is recycled silk yarn, which reduces silk fabric waste and aids developing communities.



The source of most recycled silk yarn is fiber from handmade Sari fabric. Specifically, the fringe remnants of each Sari are collected and separated by color. Then, these fibers are combed and spun into an appropriate knitting weight by workers using drop spindles. Most handmade recycled silk yarn production is done by women and takes place in northern Indian and Nepalese communities where families have difficulty making a living wage [1].

Several companies and cooperatives produce recycled silk yarn and the quality can vary widely. Although some producers make solid color yarns, most is highly variegated. Some yarn is 100% silk and spun with interesting color combinations. Other yarns may only contain minimal silk, with the balance containing rayon, nylon, or cotton, and the colors may be random.

As with any handspun yarn, it is a good idea to investigate the quality of recycled silk yarn before you purchase. Check for large variations in thickness or twist. Look down the length of the yarn to check for fiber that has not been spun into the ply. One problem with some lower-quality recycled silk yarn is that it does not hold up well to tension, basically coming apart as you knit with it or wash it. If possible, tug a low-twist or thin section of yarn to test its suitability for knitting.

In general, recycled silk yarn does not have much elasticity so fabric made from this yarn tends to be stiff unless needles much larger than the recommended size are used. Because of these characteristics, recycled silk yarn is more suitable to small accessories and simple stitch patterns, such as garter, stockinette, or ribbing. Cushion covers, purses, scarves, and garment trim would be excellent projects to showcase the color and texture of recycled silk.

Since this yarn is handmade and generally meant to allow workers to earn a living wage, the price of recycled silk yarn can be high. Expect to pay at least $12/150 yards of worsted weight yarn.

Source: [1] www.zanzibartribalart.com

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