by B. B. James

Created on: October 15, 2009

In a town known for great ethnic food, the cheesesteak stands at the top of Philadelphia's food pyramid. Whether made at a famous place like Jim's or Pat's, or picked up at your favorite local dive, the cheesesteak is the perfect "cheap eats."

The true cheesesteak - not the adulterated, fashion-conscious version - is a masterpiece of simple ingredients. It's chopped beef slashed around on a grill, and then pushed onto a large Italian roll. Squirt on some melted Cheez-Whiz (no other brand will do!), and grilled onions and peppers, and you're done. Mushrooms and hot peppers for those who like 'em. And maybe switch out the Cheez-Whiz for sliced provelone.

That's it. You don't put lettuce or tomato on it. You don't put it on a whole wheat roll. You don't use chicken or top sirloin. In fact, you don't even say "you"; you say "youse," because that's the South Philly way to talk.

The combination of flavors can't be beat. Roll is soft, and it bunches up perfectly around the steak, which mixes with the cheese in a pleasing mass. The onions, peppers, etc., deliver little jolts of flavor. And you wash it down with a coke, a cream soda, or a chocolate YooHoo - something to give an ultra-sweet contrast to the savory sandwich.

I've eaten a lot of classic local fare - from the half-smoke hotdogs of Washington DC, to the muffaletta sandwiches of New Orleans, to the deep-dish pizzas of Chicago, to North Carolina barbeque. There's nothing that says, "You've arrived in town" like a Philly cheesesteak.

Now, some people might argue that a lot of cheesesteaks are bad. That's undeniably true. But the point isn't to find a bad cheesesteak at some chain restaurant in a suburban shopping in Ohio. That's when you wind up with abominations like chicken cheesteaks on foccaccia, with feta cheese on the side. The point is to go to Philadelphia and eat a real cheesesteak made at a grill right in front of you, and to revel in the concoction of cheap ingredients that will keep you satisfied all afternoon or evening.

So the next time you're in Philadelphia, here's what you do. Ask around for the best local cheesesteak. Don't walk into a tourist place in the rich part of town. Walk right up to the counter, stare down the giant guy who's flipping the steak that's piled on the grill, and yell out what you want. Don't hesitate, or he'll go right to the next person in line, and you'll be standing there like an idiot. There aren't a lot of choices anyway. At a true cheesesteak place, the menu is half the choices of a McDonald's. But the experience and the food are far beyond any big-chain, fast-food experience you've ever had.

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