by Lisa Larsen

Created on: October 08, 2009   Last Updated: October 09, 2009

Almost everyone recalls the classic surf movies like Endless Summer and Big Wednesday, to name but a few. The writers, photographers and directors of these classics did an exquisite job of capturing the surfing state of mind. Not only were hardcore surfers stoked after seeing these flicks, but non-surfers were also wildly affected, catching a glimpse of the indescribable driving force behind those who surf.

More recent surfing flicks like Riding Giants and Thicker than Water provide us with another dose of outstanding filming and directing, bringing the surfing state of mind up to date, reminding our youth of the sport's roots and evolution. Even the more commercialized movies like Blue Crush and Pointbreak play a part in conveying the surfing state of mind.

Yet, with all this said, the relentless force behind surfing that drives surfers to ignore responsibility, shed maturity, skip work, cut school, ditch the wife and kids, lie, cheat and do all manner of seemingly selfish things when the surf is up and the waves are beckoningthis indefinable compulsion that torments the dedicated surfer is the true surfing state of mind. There is no cure, no relief and no other way. You simply live and breathe to surf.

Only when in the water, straddling a freshly waxed board, rising and falling with the undulating swell, feet dangling in the cool saltiness of Mother Ocean only then does a surfer find release. He or she is home, at peace, doing exactly the thing they love surfing. One of the strangest things about the surfing state of mind is there need not be any killer waves or barrels or long glassy faces. In fact, there may not be anything more than some small knee-high waves with good form, suitable for a relaxing session on a long board. Strange, you mutter, I thought surfing was all about those forty foot waves that go on forever. Nope. It's not about that at all. At least not to the true surfer.

Paddling out on a gorgeous summer day, toward a place where the ocean meets the sky, water rippling beneath your board, pelicans gliding inches above the sea, an occasional dolphin surfacing; paddling with strong confident strokes, the sun browning your skin and warming your muscles, salt air filling your lungs, eyes searching the horizon for the perfect swell, the one you'll grab and dance upon as your board responds to every move you make; all possibilities lie in front of you. Behind you, in a faraway place that you cannot see lay work and school and traffic and responsibilities. They await your return. But not now because now it's just you, your board and the waves. You're free. You're unencumbered. You and the ocean are one. You have become the surfing state of mind.

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