by Lois Lawrence

Created on: October 07, 2009   Last Updated: January 27, 2010

El Paso, Texas, sandwiched between the New Mexico border and the border of Old Mexico, is a fine place to be when you're hungry. You're in Texas, so you can be guaranteed great Mexican eateries, top-notch steakhouses, and barbecue joints that have survived some powerful competition. If you're staying more than a few days or settling in, you'll also want a change of pace from time to time. For that, El Paso offers a surprising array of fine dining and ethnic choices that do not involve tortillas.

To begin with, start with the basics.

MEXICAN

If you go to El Paso prepared to join in the unending debate about where to find the best Mexican restaurant, a few things are certain: First, you'll be sampling a whole lot of restaurants, including old favorites like H&H Carwash and Restaurant (a recipient of the renowned James Beard Award; a Southern Living magazine favorite, the L&J Cafe; and one of Saveur's recent picks, Casa Jurado.

But since you've come this far, why not get started where the food is Mexican by virtue of where it is prepared? Just across the border in Juarez, Mexico, you will find another longtime El Paso-area favorite, Villa del Mar, on Vincente Guerrero across from the Rio Grande Mall, where the seafood is fresh, the preparation is authentic, and the price is hard to beat almost anywhere in El Paso proper.

STEAK

For the best of a traditional steakhouse experience in El Paso, make the drive up to the super-sized Cattleman's Steakhouse Indian Cliff Ranch about 25 minutes outside downtown. German-born owner Dieter Gerzymisch oversees the outsized steaks and other all-American fare. There is outdoor dining with views of the desert and a soundtrack provided by the resident farm animals. The prices are modest compared to most East and West Coast steakhouses, and the overall feel is a bit more casual.

BARBECUE

The State Line restaurant, at 1222 Sunland Park Drive just west of downtown, is part of a chain of nine popular barbecue spots spanning Texas, Oklahoma, and New Mexico, generally known as the County Line Group. While lots of us shy away from chain restaurants of any kind, sometimes expansion is more about good food than good entrepreneurship. That seems to be the case here. No one can complain about prices. At $23.99, a platter dubbed The Cadillac features chicken, sausage, beef ribs, brisket, pork ribs, sides, bread, and some ice cream for dessert. Sane diners will pay far less to walk away satisfied.

THE REST OF THE WORLD

While you should

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