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Created on: October 03, 2009
I have heard, and not accidentally, roses being compared to weeds because of their resilience. Many roses can survive severe northern winters, so starting from zone 6, almost no winter protection or only slight winter protection is necessary. Only, if you are an ambitious gardener in zone 6, or below who grows the fore-fathers of hybrid teas, noisettes and tea roses, which often are less winter hardy, their winterizing has to be more thorough.
Most modern roses are grafted onto a rootstock. The desirable variety is above the soil surface, and the rootstock was chosen for hardiness or vigor. With the top part completely damaged or lost, the rootstock will send out the shoots which are not identical to the planted variety. So the protection of the graft joint is recommended by insulating it from the winter weather. A layer of mulch or soil (a foot or so) over the graft as well as dead leaves (with the exception of maple) will do the job. Modern hybrid tea roses are often the most winter sensitive and need the most protection, while shrub roses are much more winter hardy.
For most floribundas and grandifloras the graft joint should also be protected because if the part above the joint is completely lost, you become destined to fight the shoots sent out by the rootstock used for grafting which minimizes the value of your desired variety.
Old garden roses are more winter hardy as they are grown on their own root. There is much to be said in favor of the trend to propagate more roses on their own root. You can buy many varieties of contemporary roses grown on their own root instead of being grafted. Even if the top part of the plant is completely lost, a rose grown on its own root will send out new canes identical to its variety.
I would like to share some practical tips with those who grow roses adequate to their winter hardiness zone. It pays off to know how to treat your precious roses to get them ready to withstand the cold season, and eventually freezing temperatures, heavy snow and ice storms, which is their worst enemy. You should not wait until December to start the correct preparation of your roses for the cold season. It is a several step strategy, and it is important to apply it correctly.
Incorrect feeding and excessive fertilizing at the end of the summer may damage your rose and block its transition into the right season. If you don't use industrial fertilizers which are applied once a season in spring, it is recommended to stop your routine
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