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An introduction to microdermabrasion treatments

by Gabriella D'Anton

Microdermabrasion is a resurfacing method based on the principal of intense and controlled exfoliation.

Exfoliation is a natural process that takes place daily by shedding the dead cells. This permanent renewal is intended by nature itself as a way to replace the old dead cells with new and healthy ones. As we age every single function of our body is performing at a slower pace (the ideal turnover of skin cells is between 27-30 days as we are very young and it gets to be 45-60 as we age).

The faster the body produces new cells to replace the old ones, the more vibrant and healthy the skin looks. The natural process of skin shedding is not exactly perfect in terms of even exfoliation and the noticeable results of such shortcoming are patches of dryness. When home-remedies as scrubs and purifying masks fail, microdermabrasion comes to the rescue.

As opposed to many other skin rejuvenation and resurfacing techniques (laser, peels and derma-plating), microdermabration requires no down time and it takes less than one hour to be performed.

The advantages of such treatment will be immediately noticeable in terms of softness and skin glow; however, for better and long lasting effects, a series of treatments is recommended.

Being one of the most result-oriented skin care treatment, much will be accomplished:

- stimulation and cell renewal resulting in improved vitality

- elimination of sun damage resulting in a more even coloring

- improvement of skin texture resulting in smoothness

- will diminish the visibility of acne scars

- will soften the superficial lines, but will not remove wrinkles

- lightening superficial pigmentation

- improvement of skin's ability to absorb active ingredients; otherwise, dead cells will prevent any cream or serum from getting deep enough into the skin and really make a significant difference.

Micordermabrasion is a mechanical and safe exfoliation technique done by a special machine. There are two different types of professional microdermabrasion machines in the market:

- 1) crystal microdermabrasion is the old way of performing a treatment and consists on blasting abrasive mineral crystals into the skin in order to dislocate dead cells; the structure of the skin under the microscope looks like the scale of a fish, so separating them before suction is essential.

- 2) the wand with diamond micro-particles at the tip is the new version of microdermabrasion machine. Sanding down the superficial layer of the skin and removing the dead cells is also simultaneously accompanied by suction. At the end of the treatment, the patient can actually see on the machine's filter the accumulated dead cells that have been removed.

Advantages of the diamond wand microdermabrasion include:

- it is a controlled process and the aesthetician can immediately decide the time an intensity of the treatment according to the skin reaction

- could be performed very close to the eye area and all around the mouth, since there are no crystal to enter the cavities

- it is safer, for both the patient and the aesthetician, in terms of eliminating the possibility of birthing in the crystals

After microdermabrasion sun exposure should be minimal and the use of acid (as glycolic or salicylic) should be limited. While vitamin C serums are recommended, the use of Retin-A or Retinol should wait for up to a week.

When it comes to home devises, the results may be disappointing.

In between professional treatments or as a maintenance, they are not such a bad idea, providing the use is limited and done with precaution. Advertised microdermabrasion products (such as abrasive creams) are a waste of time and money.

Almost every skin type could benefit from microdermabrasion treatment (the only exception being active acne, eczema and psoriasis).

The Rosacea condition is a delicate question and only an experienced aesthetician could determine if the benefits are worth the risks.

Easy, safe, effective and fairly inexpensive, microdermabrasion treatments are gaining more and more popularity.

Helium, Inc.
200 Brickstone Square Andover, MA 01810 USA