by Barbara Guess

Created on: August 22, 2009

What has to be considered when a piece of jewelry is being made? First of all the skill of the maker and the training and projects they have been previously exposed to. A university degree not only teaches the practical application and skills required but also develops colour and design aptitude. The physical knowledge of how metals and stones act when subjected to high temperatures, down to the basics of how to keep them in pristine condition and tarnish free. The apprenticeship includes a study of anatomy, noting how the body moves and which parts benefit from adornment: psychology and the hidden messages of wealth, success, beauty, friendship, love and all the other subtleties that jewelry symbolises. History and tradition carry lots of clues and a wealth of experimental pieces.

In its most advanced form it becomes an art. The maker uses all the colour and design skills available, considering the customer and the effect that the customer is trying to achieve, fusing metals and gem stones into a pleasing creative format. Perhaps starting with a gem of great value and designing a suitable mount to enhance and showcase its beauty.

The next level is the mass manufacture of jewelry to please the general market. Where price and value is at a lower level. The design is still very important and has to appeal to a greater number of people. There is always the need to find new and fresh angles to attract attention. People like to display their wealth and taste with jewelry to enhance their wardrobe. From everyday wear that is simple in design but hardwearing in use, to the exaggerated wear used for glamorous nights out dining and dancing.

At the lowest level are the cheap trinkets that flash along with the seasonal changes in fashion. Little beaded bracelets and anklets suitable for the beach. Christmas tree earrings that only need to survive a few days of wear. All of these items from the most expensive creations to the cheapest have been designed at some stage. It is this consideration of shape and colour and the effects they have to each other that make jewelry making more of an art form. It would be simple to take a stone and continually replicate the setting in silver; but jewelry making is about combining the stones colour and shape with a mount suitable to enhance its attractiveness.

Craft implies a skill to complete a specific task, a repeated learned application transferring practical knowledge from generation to generation. Whereas art adds the inspirational aspect of design in shape, colour and use of material that gives jewelry its added sparkle and addiction.

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