by Phil Take

Created on: August 05, 2009

This article is mainly about how to train for strength outside the gym. Of course, the best way to become a better climber is to go to the climbing gym, or better yet, the crag. But if you can't climb outdoors and for whatever reason, can't make it to the gym, then here are a few pointers to get you headed in the right direction.

1. Train the right muscles

-Make sure not to add any extra mass that is unnecessary for climbing. Pushups are inefficient and don't provide good "value" for the weight that it adds. Ripped pecks look great, but don't really help that much. They will become naturally stronger from climbing

-Instead, your abs and core give you a much better value to weight ratio. The added benefit is that these muscles will often be underutilized during your climbing routines and can be trained hard while outside the gym. Situps, crunches, leg lifts and core excercizes will give you better balance and help you lift your legs up for moves like heel or toe hooks.

2. Get a pullup bar, or better yet, a hangboard

-Climbers understand that the pullup is one of the most crucial exercises. It works many muscles and it simulates climbing a lot better than other exercises. Pullups should ideally become as easy to do as pushups.

If you have the money/space to invest in a hangboard, then this is easily the best training device availible. It allows you to work on individual muscles required for climbing and will help you with your open hand and crimp grip. It will help you with a variety of holds, such as slopers, pinches, pockets, etc. If you are lucky enough to have one of these, I would recommend googling an excercise routine or reading the instructions that come with the board (obviously)..

3. Constantly use a forearm/finger trainer. Check out the black diamond forearm trainer or the "mastergrip". These small devices are portable and can be used anywhere and will help with your finger/forearm strength, which has an extremely high (probably the highest) weight to value ratio. If you have strong fingers, you will become a better climber with a lower risk of injury.

4. Boulder.

Bouldering trains route climbing, but route climbing does not necessarily train your bouldering. if you are training for strength, then bouldering is the way to go (endurance is a different story).

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