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Sewing: How to sew a French seam

by Sophia Josephina

Created on: July 29, 2009   Last Updated: July 30, 2009

The one thing you don't want to see is frayed edges on your beautifully sewn dress. By doing a simple step you can make your dress look like it was professionally made by a tailor. A French seam sounds hard to make, but in reality it is actually very simple and it will make your dress or any other garment you sew look like you are a designer, not just a seamstress.

If you are using very sheer fabrics such as chiffon, it is best to hide seams when ever possible. This is because the seam will be seen and if the frayed edges are visible it will look a little sloppy and after all your hard work stitching this garment together, you want it to look as professional as possible?

Using a French Seam will hide the unsightly frayed edges of a seam as well as preventing unraveling and unwanted puckering. You are basically sewing a seam on top of an existing seam to hide it.

These directions may sound confusing, but it isn't I assure you.

First you sew a simple regular straight seam. Matching wrong sides together and sew half of the seam allowance. Example: if your seam allowance is 5/8" (which is common for most clothing patterns), then you will sew at the 3/8" mark. If you are sewing a long seam such as a pant leg or sleeve then you will want to shorten your stitch or use a narrow zig zag stitch. This will help to reduce puckering.

Step two; press open your seam that you have just sewn. This is an extra step, but it will give your garment a crisper look.

Once you have ironed your seam cut the raw edge of your seam as close as you can get to the seam line without cutting the seam itself. This step will prevent puckering and will hide the frayed edges extremely well.

Now turn your fabric so that the right sides are together. Sew another straight seam 1/4" from seam allowance. You are in essence hiding the first seam that you sewed and incasing the frayed edges. When you look at this seam there should be no frayed edges on either side of the seam.

Press your seam open and marvel at the seam you have just created.

Doesn't your French Seam look pretty!

There that wasn't too hard was it? It just sounded hard and you have learned a new technique to apply to your professional tailoring background.

Learn more about this author, Sophia Josephina.
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