by Liz Sinclair

Created on: July 23, 2009

I stared at the travel agent in horror. 'Let me get this straight,' I said, 'I have a TWELVE HOUR LAYOVER in Singapore. How am I going to spend twelve hours in an airport? That's my idea of hell on earth. Aren't there any other flights available?' I asked. To my amazement, the agent smiled and patted my arm. 'There are no other flights but don't worry,' she said, 'It's Changi Airport. We call it 'Club Changi.' You'll have plenty to do. You'll see.

In the end, I ran out of time exploring 'Club Changi'. First, I spent an hour relaxing by the outdoor pool - yes, there's a pool, complete with changing rooms and a gym; according to Time magazine, it's the 'best kept secret in Asia.' I worked on my tan and watched planes arriving from and departing to destinations all over the world. There was a couple also using the pool: he was from Canada, she was from New Zealand, and they were on their way to Auckland from Los Angeles. I hear that Singapore has good electronics shopping, the man told me. This is an amazing airport, said the woman, There's so much to do here.

After the pool, I wandered up to the roof to have a look at the Sunflower Garden: it was elegant, well-laid out, full of beautiful sunny yellow flowers, and nicotine-starved transit passengers having a cigarette. I discovered trolleys aren't allowed into the gardens at Changi so I left mine at the entrance. Driven out by the clouds of smoke, I exited, only to find that someone had made off with my cart. Cursing and carrying my over-packed hand luggage back down several levels, I went in search of another cart.

I went to enquire about the free, guided Singapore city tours hosted by Singapore Airlines and the Singapore Tourist Board. At the booth, they put my name on a list, and told me I could leave my hand luggage in the bag room. Changi turns out to have a manned checkroom, a feature missing from most airports these days, where you can deposit your over-packed hand luggage, and free up your hands to carry shopping bags.

I stopped into the Terminal 2 pharmacy. The pharmacy carried the entire Tiger Balm range (I had no idea they made a Joint Rub) and the largest range of Chinese and herbal teas I have seen anywhere. I stocked up on Salon Pas patches for the many bruises I gain practicing martial arts.

Returning to the tour booth, I joined a group of about 20 other people; our passports were taken, we were whisked through immigration by our guide, and shepherded onto two waiting buses. As the buses drove

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