I spent the better part of my 20's in the saddle of my 12 speed. I would ride for hours going the distance; no real agenda, no real destination. I simple loved to ride. Under the seat, hanging from strap loops, I tied my tool bundle. A few essentials that would keep my excursion rolling should my ride suffer from mechanical difficulty. That was better than 25 years ago, but I'm still involved with bikes. In fact I've spent the last eleven years as an in-store service tech. The largest part of my duties were to build bicycles. I know bikes; as well as what it takes to keep them running. I also know what to carry in a bike toolkit.
In many ways bike technology has improved, as has the ability for the average person to purchase specialty tools cheap. So the kit we will be assembling in this article will be in many ways better than what I carried back in the day. Almost all of the gear will be obtainable at either the tool department or the bike accessory rack of the local department store. There will be a couple of optional specialty tools that you may want to purchase, and to do so you will need to go to a Sporting Goods Store or a Bike Shop. I will also try to explain why they are needed and how to use them. This kit will work just as well for off the road riders as it will for over the road riders.
The parts of the bike that takes the most abuse are the wheels, so we will address them first. Nothing will end a good day of riding quicker than a blown tire or a bent rim. In most cases both repairs can be made easily in the field. So the first things we need to include in our bundle are the spare tube, a tube patch kit (I have found it best to carry both), a 15mm combination wrench ( avoid anything to cheap, they tend to stretch and/or slip) and either a set of tire irons or a speed stick. You will also need a spoke wrench, and you might consider four light weight bungee cords about a foot long - they have a variety of usage. And of course let us not forget a tire pump; invest in a good frame pump or one of the new co2 pumps.
First lets fix that flat tire. Before you start, do a quick inspection to see if you can figure out why it went flat. Nothing is worse than having the new tube go flat as soon as you pump it up because a piece of something was stuck in the tire and re-punctured it. With that done remove the wheel to be repaired. If it doesn't have quick release levers on the axle it will normally have 15mm nuts. Turn them counter clockwise with the wrench to loosen and pull the wheel from the frame.
Most will tell you to use a set of tire levers to remove the tire from the rim, and they will work fine. However there is a tool I like better; it is called a speed stick. Cigar shaped, about the size of a Sharpie marker, it is made of yellow plastic with a notch in one end. It a simple tool that cost under $2.00 and works amazingly well. With the notch facing up you push that end in between the tire and rim, then pull down, hooking the inside of the tire. Draw the stick toward you while rotating the wheel. When a complete rotation is made one side of the tire will be off the rim and the tube can be removed.
Before replacing the tube always careful check inside the rim and tire for anything that might pierce the tube. Use caution when examining inside the rubber, if something is sharp enough to cut the tube it can cut you too. Here's the big secret to replacing a tube; never put it back in the rim flat. Inflate it just enough to take shape, but not so much that it starts to expand. Line up the valve stem with the valve stem hole and tuck the tube up inside the tire. Push the valve through the hole and start pulling the free side of the tire back on the rim.
Work your way around the tire until it is completely on the rim. The last few inches may be difficult to get on, but avoid using tools to do this because they can puncture the tube. Locking the wheel between your legs and pulling toward your body usually works best. When finished put the wheel back on the bike before inflating. This allow you to slide it by the brakes and avoid opening and readjusting them. Then just pump up the tire and your ready to ride.
A bet rim is the other issue that is common when riding. Bumps and pot holes will throw a wheel out of true, causing it to rub on the brakes and making it difficult to pedal. If the bend is severe don't even bother trying to fix it, take it to a professional. Truing a rim incorrectly can damage it worse. But if it is a minor alignment issue, with a little practice you can fix it yourself. First you need to get your spoke wrench. This is a small ring shaped tool with a notch in it that fits on the top of the spoke. Turning it counterclockwise loosen the spoke and clockwise tighten them.
Use those bungee cords to suspend the bike in the air by it's frame; use a tree branch, railing, swing set, etc. If need be suspend the bent rim end of the bike in the air and bungee the other rim around the frame so it can't move. Rotate the wheel to the point where it touches the brake. The spoke closest to the brake gets loosened a turn at a time, the two opposing spokes get tightened a turn. Work your way around the wheel continuing to do this until the rim spins freely. Never leave spokes too loose and over tightening can snap them; and if you can't get it true take it to a professional. But most of time you will find that with a little practice minor truing is within your range of abilities.
Another item you will come to appreciate is a chain tool. It is used to break the chain apart and put it back together. An inexpensive verse can also be found on the accessories rack, and it will work fine. You center the tool over the rivet in chain where you want to break it and tighten the screw. This will push the pin out, opening the link; but don't let it go all the way, leave a small nub remaining. This will help when putting the chain back together. Remove the tool. Hold the links on either side of the open link and flex the chain to separate. When reassembling slip the nub you left into the open link, center the tool on the pushed out pin and tighten the screw.
When the pin extends equally on either side of the link the chain is repaired. Flex the chain a couple of times at the repair to be sure the chain moves freely. Being able to break a chain will help with a variety of repairs. If you need to remove a derailleur you need to break the chain, if part of your chain gets damaged or twisted you can replace a section instead of replacing the whole thing. In fact I always carried about an 8in length of old chain to use for repairs.
Other tools to put in your kit are a 13mm & 14mm combination wrench; common sizes for seats, seat bolts & stem bolts. Also add to the kit 8, 9, & 10mm combo wrenches and 1/4in drive sockets; used on everything from brakes to derailleur's. Instead of a bunch of screwdrivers I prefer one ratcheting type with assorted bits. I actually found one in discount tool bin that is small, T-shaped, and had three position settings ( ratchet left, right & locked.) It even had storage in the handle. What ever you pick be sure it allows you a good grip to turn with.
As far as the bits I carry two of each: #1, #2, #3 Philip head and slotted screwdriver; 1.5 through 6mm hex head; a drive socket adapter and any special bit specific to the bike. These bits will allow you to tighten and adjust most of the components of the bicycle. Include an adjustable wrench large enough to fix the top nut on the fork and a multi-tool that has wire cutters as part of the pliers and your kit is almost complete. I add 3 of those red shop rags, and use a small bath towel as a roll up pouch; plus they serve as hand rags should repairs be needed.
I wrap the tube and patch kit in one rag, wrenches in another. Then set everything else on the third. Nothing should lay out more than about 10in wide. Set it all on the end of the towel, (leaving two bungees out), fold the edges in and roll it up. The cords are used to secure the wrap and attach the bundle under the seat. Or you could just buy a bike bag to carry it all in. The bundle is an option I liked because I can roll out my equipment ready to use.
If you ride a lot or take long trips, there are 4 other item you may want to consider including; a freewheel remover for pulling off the rear sprocket, crank puller and 14mm thin wall socket & ratchet to replace a crank arm and a 15mm pedal wrench. The 15 mm wrench already in your kit will work, it's just pedals can come off hard and this tool is designed to give more leverage without stretching or slipping. It will work on axle bolts as well. Also pedals tighten clockwise on the right side and counterclockwise on the left side; and their orientation is stamped on the end of the threads.
That should give you what you need to handle almost any normal repair you run into on the road. Good luck and enjoy the ride. Below is a complete list.
Spare tube & patch kit
Speed stick and/or tire irons
Spoke wrench
Tire pump: good frame pump or co2 pump
8mm, 9mm, 10m, 13mm, 14mm, 15mm,
combination wrenches
Chain tool & 8in length of spare chain
8mm, 9mm, 10mm; 1/4in drive sockets
Ratcheting screwdriver with replaceable bits
Driver Bits: 2 of each
#1, #2, #3, philips & slotted
1.5mm - 6mm hex head
drive socket adapter
Any special bits
Adjustable wrench
Multi-tool w/ wire cutter in pliers
4 Bungee cords (optional)
3 Shop towels (optional)
Bath towel (optional)
Pedal wrench (advanced kit)
Freewheel tool (advanced kit)
Crank puller (advanced kit)
14mm thin wall socket & ratchet ( advanced kit)