by Vicki Andis

Created on: July 13, 2009   Last Updated: July 15, 2009

The city of Cusco is located in southeastern Peru, near the Urubamba Valley of the Andes Mountains. This high-altitude melting pot of Amerindian and Mestizo culture exists side by side in the city's stone streets, epitomized by the Qoriacancha Palace, and the Church of Santa Domingo, flanking the Plaza de Armas.

Cusco, the historic capital of the Incan Empire, hosts nearly one million visitors a year. The best time to visit is during the summer months of May through August, when the many colorful summer festivals specific to the region are in full swing.

Enjoy the mix of indigenous influences found in the local cuisine, as French, Italian, African, British, and Basque influences can be found in the local restaurants in the city. "Cuy," made with either alpaca or guinea pig, served with arroz chaufa con mariscos, is a popular dish with the locals. The use of seafood is prevalent in restaurants such as Yamakawa. You won't want to miss out on the seafood taco, served with a seafood ceviche. For more traditional "street fare," try the anticuchos or picarones.

While visiting Cusco, don't forget to take the time to visit "El Mercado de los Brujos," or the Witches' Market, where even today an uneasy truce between pagan beliefs, and the Christian faith exists. Located on Calle Linares, between Sagarnaga and Santa Cruz, this open air market overflows with interesting and unusual items.

Mounted animal heads, lifeless eyes gazing upon the many shelves filled with dried herbs, potions, and toad talismans, hang on the wall in one of the tiny shops. Tables holding everything from owl feathers to soaps lean precariously against boxes filled with old liquor bottles filled with potions, concocted by boiling medicinal plants and animal parts, such as boa constrictor heads, sit in a row along the floor. Stone amulets fight for space amid bags filled with sheep toenails, and rows of colored candles, each possessing magical properties, which, when lit, can bring the recipient health, wealth, or happiness.

One of the strangest specialty items offered at the market are the dried llama fetuses. These bring luck when buried in the foundations of newly constructed buildings. The locals offer them to the Goddess Pachamama, or Earth Mother, as incentive for her blessings on the new businesses. Besides the dried fetuses, other specialty items such as handmade guitars, charangos, flutes and other wind instruments, and soapstone statues of the Goddess Pachamama are displayed predominantly throughout the market.

Self-styled witches, adorned in colorful dresses and bowler hats, preside over the many shops. As you pass by, they may offer to perform ancient rituals, which have been handed down from generation to generation, asking the Goddess Pachamama to bring you prosperity and happiness. Need a curse? These amazing women will take care of that for you too!

Don't be surprised to find yourself face to face with one of the many Kallaways, or medicine bringers, strolling through the market. These men and women, also known as soothsayers, can be recognized by their dark hats and the cocoa pouches they carry. They will tell your fortune by scattering cocoa leaves and examining them carefully.

While some of the locals believe that tourists are demeaning the significance of the Witches' Market, others welcome them warmly. Either way, you won't be sorry you took the time to visit this very interesting and thought-provoking city.

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