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Cusco witches' market

by Debbie Lester

Created on: July 11, 2009   Last Updated: July 15, 2009

Cusco, Peru, is often referred to as the mythical capital of the Incan Empire. Located high in the mountains of Peru, Cusco is home to not only Christian religious influences but also the traditional Incan beliefs that center around the Sun god and other not-so-Christian deities. Cusco is a place of majesty and grandeur from the Sacred Valley to the Plaza de Armus, with stonework dating back to the days of the conquistadors.

On a visit to Cusco with my family, I was astounded by the many different beliefs of the local people. From Christianity to witchcraft, from shaman and medicine men to priests, Cusco was filled with nothing, if not variety. Open-air markets and shops abound and you can find just about anything once you're acclimated to the climate.

If you are a new visitor to Cusco, remember that it may take a day or two to get used to the high altitudes before you can venture out without feeling queasy or breathless. Drink plenty of liquids and get used to things. Then you will be free to explore Cusco and all its wonders.

One of my favorite places to visit in Cusco was the local Mercado de los Brojos, the witches' market. If you are looking for something offbeat or a little quirky, this is the place for you. Located across from the largest open-air market in Cusco, near the Plaza de Armus, the witches' market is one of the most interesting places in the city.

The locals are friendly, but keep your eyes open; many merchants will try to put one over on you if they think you are unfamiliar with the area. Some will charge extravagant prices for merchandise a local can buy for just a few soles. One American dollar is worth around 3.2 soles. Always carry a few soles with you. If your American dollars are not in mint condition, most locals will not give you change.

If it's embroidered textiles or hand-woven baskets you expect to find, you will be greatly surprised. The witches' market is filled with magic herbs, potions, masks, charms and even aphrodisiacs. It is a typical street market, with wares being displayed in stalls but mixed in with the colorful yarns and over 2,000 different varieties of potatoes, you'll find dried cats, frogs and bats that are said to bring good luck, health and money to the purchaser.

One of the main attractions in the Cusco witches' market isn't something most people would consider a good omen: Llama embryos hang on rusty hooks along with other dried animal parts. These llama embryos are often walled into the corners of

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