by Beverley Francis

Created on: June 27, 2009

Aphids are one problem producing little bug. These tiny pests(less than 1/10th of an inch long) are a major source of headaches for gardeners. Not only do they suck the juice from plants, they spread viral disease like mosaic and they excrete a substance called honeydew which attracts ants(ants protect aphids) and encourages the growth of mould.

In warm climates aphids reproduce continually, in northern climates they survive the winter as eggs and when the weather warms in late May and early June they make their appearance.

If you notice yellowing, puckering, curling leaves or deformed flowers chances are that aphids have taken residence and the ants won't be far behind. Check for cottony masses on trees and shrubs, the undersides of new leaves, around buds and stems. All fruits and vegetables are vulnerable to this little beast.

There are some factors that might be contributing to your aphid problem...such as using too much nitrogen fertilizer, over use of pesticides which kill off aphid predators or over-pruning your fruit trees...this causes sucker growth which attracts hungry aphids.

For a light infestation of aphids you can spray the plant with water to dislodge the aphids. This should be done three times, once every other day in the early morning.

You can also pick them by hand and squeeze to destroy. Squashed aphids mixed with water to form a bug juice spray is used by some gardeners as an aphid repellent.

Sticky traps are another simple solution for aphids. You can make these easily by painting a board bright yellow and applying a sticky material such as Tack Trap, Tanglefoot, petroleum jelly or even motor oil, boards should be about 10" x 10". Place boards near the affected plants for three or four weeks, if you leave them out longer they will trap beneficial insects along with the pests.

A spray can be made from garlic, chives or hot peppers and sprayed directly on the aphids in two applications. Grind the garlic, chives or peppers into a fine mixture, add water and strain. Apply two to three days apart.

Spinach and rhubarb leaves also make an effective spay because they contain oxalic acid which is poisonous to the aphid if it is highly concentrated. To make the spray cut up one pound of leaves and boil in a quart of water for 30 minutes. Strain the liquid, to help the spray stick to leaves add a touch of soap(not detergent).

A tomato-leaf spray can be used to kill aphids as well. Pour one quart of boiling water over one quart of tomato leaves and let steep for one hour. Strain through a cloth, be sure to squeeze the leaves to get all the liquid out, refrigerate until needed. Dilute with one gallon of water before using.

Cultivating your garden in the fall is the best way to prevent aphids. Completely remove all plant material leaving the soil bare and cultivate the soil to 6 or 8 inches, two or three weeks later cultivate two inches deep. About two weeks before planting do a two inch cultivation and repeat this when you plant. This should effectively destroy the aphid eggs and minimize aphid problems throughout the growing season.

Natural predators should also be encouraged to help out. Some of these include: chickadees, nuthatches, purple finches, chipping sparrows, warblers, toads, lacewings(one of the best bug predators), ladybugs, damselflies, ground beetles, spiders. parasitic wasps and others.

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