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Travel destinations: Scotland

by Antony J Waller

Created on: June 20, 2009   Last Updated: January 10, 2011



We were touring the north of Scotland and had come specifically to the Black Isle to see and get close to a colony of bottle-nosed dolphins,to Chanonry Point, 20 miles to the north east of Inverness and midway between Fortrose and Rosemarkie. It was a beautiful clear sunny day and we were walking along the sands of a gently curving bay. Waves, pushed on by the breeze, were breaking and washing up the beach as we headed for the tip of a pebble promontory to a point where the land narrowed and jutted out into the cold waters of the Moray Firth. On the opposite shore stood Fort George, a reminder of violent times past and the days of Bonnie Prince Charlie, with its stark stone walls and imposing artillery defences surrounding a collection of featureless stone buildings. However, we had not come to visit the historical glories, but the natural wonders. For here it was said, 'There be dolphins.'

We were not alone and in front of us stood the 'watchers'. A group of over a hundred people standing silently on the shingle bank close to the waters edge. Slightly further back a line of tripods mounted with cameras and fitted with long lenses seemed to be waiting expectantly, almost like alien beings pointing towards the water. As we moved closer arms were pointed, binoculars raised, as the watchers looked to the waters. Suddenly an excited shout went up, followed by a chorus of 'ooohs, and aaaahs'. There were dolphins in the waves.

The ballet was about to begin and no more than 20 to 30 feet away from where we were standing. The offshore breeze had stiffened and was whipping the sea into small waves crested with white foam. The waves, caught by the low rays of sun light, seemed to come alive, rippling and dancing, sparkling and glistening, urging the performance to begin.

A fin burst through the surface of the choppy waters, followed by another and then another. Flashes of grey, silver and black against the backdrop of the sea. Bottle-nosed dolphins; their graceful bodies arching upwards and slicing cleanly through the waves. Groups of two or three dolphins swimming together, side by side, and one behind the other, all seemingly grinning at their audience of onlookers gathered on the shore. A fluked tail flicked and beat at the surface and disappeared into the depths. Suddenly a dolphin leapt completely clear of the water, falling back with a splash. Then another shows off his acrobatic skills, twisting and turning upwards out of the water as if to outdo his rival. Majestically the dolphins glide past effortlessly performing their ballet of the sea. Alas, all too soon the show is over and the waters fall still again. An appreciative audience makes their way back along the beach. What a gala performance to witness. Dancing with dolphins. Surely nature at its spectacular best. Do not miss it!




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