distance. Take a tour to see the flamingo breeding grounds at Laguna Chaxa, which is a wet spot in the more extensive Salar de Atacama. Further afield (95 kms north) is the El Tatio Geyser field at 4200 meters altitude. This tour requires a 6 am start to see the steaming fumeroles at sunrise followed by a leisurely exploration of this geothermal area and bathe in a hot pool.

Where to next? The tourist should be aware that northern Chile is the most prosperous of all its regions because of its mining, fishing resources and tourism. Chile is the largest producer of copper in the world.

I suggest a stop over at Calama which is close to San Pedro. This is the mining town that supports Chuquicamata, the huge open cut copper mine which is operated by the government owned mining company Codelco. Check out the company office for a tour to the big hole. The Atacama desert has many other large porphyry copper and gold mines, such as Escondido, Cerro Colorado and Spence (BHP) . The region produces a huge amount of copper and molybdenum plus appreciable silver and gold. The salt pan regions are mined for nitrates, borax, lithium and iodine salts.

The coastal cities are all worth a stop over to absorb their historical significance, to enjoy the beach resorts, and to take tours into the desert hinterland.

Copiapo (population ca 130,000) is a fascinating old mining town (silver, copper and nitrates) and has an historic school of mines, mineralogical museum and railway museum. The first railway in Chile was built (1850) to its port at Caldera. The fertile Rio Copiapo valley has vineyards and orchards. Further inland there is a road (Route 31) to Argentina heading towards Nevado Tres Cruces National Park and the nearby high Andean peak of Ojos del Salada (6893 meters).

Antofagasta (population ca 225,000) is the major port for export of copper and minerals from the Atacama mines. It is central to spectacular desert coastal scenery. Tour agencies abound to help you explore the hinterland of ghost towns and the old nitrate mining regions. After satisfying your curiosity here bus inland to Calama and San Pedro de Atacama. In summer you can travel by bus from Calama to Salta in Argentina but the organized tour crossings to or from Uyuni, Bolivia are much more exciting.

Iquique (population ca 145,000) is a prosperous city due largely to its popular Zona Franca, or duty free zone. During the 19th century it was a major port exporting nitrates and silver. Historic buildings and museums abound. Local beaches are good for swimming and surfing. Organized tours take in many desert hinterland destinations.

Arica (population ca 165,000) is as far north as you can go in Chile; the next country is Peru! Arica has a wonderful sunny climate for it never rains, so is it perfect for R & R. Rest up awhile! The adjacent landmark hill "El Morro" (110 meters) provides an excellent view of the town and port. The southern beach resorts are plentiful and the best in Chile. The local artisans produce a huge range of ceramics, fabrics and handicrafts. Tourism is at its best, with many tours available to Lauca National Park (volcanoes, llamas, condors etc), to Azapa Valley and various archeological sites. A week at least is need for Arica!

The Atacama Desert is a major tourist region of Chile. Everyone should go there to experience its unique Martian landscape. I feel I must return and explore places I missed on previous trips!

Learn more about this author, Allan Taylor.
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