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lofty volcanoes, salt lakes, a geyser field and hot springs, to finally descend to the gringo tourist center of San Pedro de Atacama (population ca 1000) in Chile, located at a mere 2440 meters altitude,.

The high altitude salt lakes on the way, viz., Lagunas Colorada and Verde, are populated with graceful pink flamingoes feeding on brine shrimp. The rocky, wind eroded outcrops in the desert are the home of the friendly viscacha which is like a large guinea pig, always wanting a handout. On the Chilean/Bolivia border is Volcan Licancabur (5916 meters) steaming away. Devoid of snow in the summer this volcano is a favorite for energetic hikers who struggle to the summit, one reportedly with a mountain bike to take a fast ride down. Probably the highest motor road in the world is to the sulfur mine near the summit of Volcan Uturunco (6020 meters).

Arrival in San Pedro de Atacama is a very welcome and fascinating experience, more so than anywhere else I have been before. Ancient white adobe buildings surround a central plaza where one can find a cool beer and inexpensive accommodation. Backpackers and foreign tourists abound and provide a vitality that is enviable. Many tour agencies vie for business. This unconventional entry to Chile from Bolivia so described, is also a favored route for tourists to leave Chile for Bolivia.

San Pedro was established as a European settlement by the Spanish ca 1540, as an oasis in the middle of the Atacama desert. It was once an important stopover point for transportation between Bolivia and Argentina, and the Pacific coastal ports. Cattle drives from Argentina provided meat for the booming Atacama desert nitrate mining regions in the 19th century and silver was exported from the rich Bolivian mines at Potosi. Nowadays freight goes by rail from Oruro, Bolivia, across the Andes and through Calama to the port of Antofagasta.

San Pedro de Atacama is a favorite destination for tourists wanting to experience the unique Atacama Desert, the driest in the world. Allow a few days for R & R in San Pedro; rest up, have a few beers and so contemplate the amazing landscape. Meditate at the striking Iglesia San Pedro built in 1745 from adobe blocks and cactus wood held together by leather strips.

There is much to see around San Pedro. Even the short walk to explore the cemetery is worthwhile to see all the brightly colored paper flower decorations which last forever in the dry atmosphere. Nearby Valley of the Moon is within cycling

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