The quickest and most comfortable way of getting a first hand experience of the Atacama Desert is to fly over it.
Fly north from Santiago to the Pacific coastal cities of Antafagasta, Iquique, and to Arica on the Peruvian border and you will see a vast expanse of arid brown landscape stretching from the coast to the high Andes. You need to be on the right hand side of the plane, but coming south be on the left hand side. Flights from these coastal Chilean cities to La Paz, Bolivia also cross over the desert, from east to west.
How big is it? As an "eco-region" it takes in most of northern Chile from the Peru border at Arica down south to about Copiapo, or a coastal strip of about 1000 kms. This is the really dry part where yearly rainfall recorded can be 1 mm or less! To the east the desert extends to the less arid central Andean plateau at 4000 or more meters in altitude. All told, the Atacama desert covers over 180,000 sq. kms consisting of barren sand, volcanic rock and salt pans.
What's it like close up? It's the nearest you will get to walking on the Moon or Mars! In most places there is not a sign of vegetation anywhere.
There are various ways that the tourist can venture by land into the Atacama desert region.
You could take a deluxe air-conditioned bus from Santiago to Arica and traverse the entire desert which takes 28 hours nonstop for the journey of almost 2000 kms. Much better is to stop off a few days at places en route, such as at La Serena, Copiapo, Antofagasta, Calama, Iquique and to finally reach Arica after having 2 weeks of unhurried sightseeing and exploration. More on this later.
Alternatively you could enter Chile from neighboring Bolivia by two (or more) fascinating routes. The far north bus and rail route from La Paz to Arica is a great day trip where you can experience the amazing scenery of the altiplano and desert landscape while skirting Lago Chungara and the snowy volcanoes of the Lauca National Park. In the old days one could travel by a quaint antiquated rail car which provided added excitement particularly when traversing the often dodgy Bolivian railway system.
The most exciting and astounding way to come is to take the 3 day excursion from Uyuni, Bolivia to San Pedro de Atacama, Chile, which is an oasis in the middle of the Atacama Desert. These 4-wheel drive organized tours more or less follow a "road" across salt pans and the desert altiplano crossing a pass at 5000 meters altitude. The route winds its way around lofty volcanoes, salt lakes, a geyser field and hot springs, to finally descend to the gringo tourist center of San Pedro de Atacama (population ca 1000) in Chile, located at a mere 2440 meters altitude,.
The high altitude salt lakes on the way, viz., Lagunas Colorada and Verde, are populated with graceful pink flamingoes feeding on brine shrimp. The rocky, wind eroded outcrops in the desert are the home of the friendly viscacha which is like a large guinea pig, always wanting a handout. On the Chilean/Bolivia border is Volcan Licancabur (5916 meters) steaming away. Devoid of snow in the summer this volcano is a favorite for energetic hikers who struggle to the summit, one reportedly with a mountain bike to take a fast ride down. Probably the highest motor road in the world is to the sulfur mine near the summit of Volcan Uturunco (6020 meters).
Arrival in San Pedro de Atacama is a very welcome and fascinating experience, more so than anywhere else I have been before. Ancient white adobe buildings surround a central plaza where one can find a cool beer and inexpensive accommodation. Backpackers and foreign tourists abound and provide a vitality that is enviable. Many tour agencies vie for business. This unconventional entry to Chile from Bolivia so described, is also a favored route for tourists to leave Chile for Bolivia.
San Pedro was established as a European settlement by the Spanish ca 1540, as an oasis in the middle of the Atacama desert. It was once an important stopover point for transportation between Bolivia and Argentina, and the Pacific coastal ports. Cattle drives from Argentina provided meat for the booming Atacama desert nitrate mining regions in the 19th century and silver was exported from the rich Bolivian mines at Potosi. Nowadays freight goes by rail from Oruro, Bolivia, across the Andes and through Calama to the port of Antofagasta.
San Pedro de Atacama is a favorite destination for tourists wanting to experience the unique Atacama Desert, the driest in the world. Allow a few days for R & R in San Pedro; rest up, have a few beers and so contemplate the amazing landscape. Meditate at the striking Iglesia San Pedro built in 1745 from adobe blocks and cactus wood held together by leather strips.
There is much to see around San Pedro. Even the short walk to explore the cemetery is worthwhile to see all the brightly colored paper flower decorations which last forever in the dry atmosphere. Nearby Valley of the Moon is within cycling distance. Take a tour to see the flamingo breeding grounds at Laguna Chaxa, which is a wet spot in the more extensive Salar de Atacama. Further afield (95 kms north) is the El Tatio Geyser field at 4200 meters altitude. This tour requires a 6 am start to see the steaming fumeroles at sunrise followed by a leisurely exploration of this geothermal area and bathe in a hot pool.
Where to next? The tourist should be aware that northern Chile is the most prosperous of all its regions because of its mining, fishing resources and tourism. Chile is the largest producer of copper in the world.
I suggest a stop over at Calama which is close to San Pedro. This is the mining town that supports Chuquicamata, the huge open cut copper mine which is operated by the government owned mining company Codelco. Check out the company office for a tour to the big hole. The Atacama desert has many other large porphyry copper and gold mines, such as Escondido, Cerro Colorado and Spence (BHP) . The region produces a huge amount of copper and molybdenum plus appreciable silver and gold. The salt pan regions are mined for nitrates, borax, lithium and iodine salts.
The coastal cities are all worth a stop over to absorb their historical significance, to enjoy the beach resorts, and to take tours into the desert hinterland.
Copiapo (population ca 130,000) is a fascinating old mining town (silver, copper and nitrates) and has an historic school of mines, mineralogical museum and railway museum. The first railway in Chile was built (1850) to its port at Caldera. The fertile Rio Copiapo valley has vineyards and orchards. Further inland there is a road (Route 31) to Argentina heading towards Nevado Tres Cruces National Park and the nearby high Andean peak of Ojos del Salada (6893 meters).
Antofagasta (population ca 225,000) is the major port for export of copper and minerals from the Atacama mines. It is central to spectacular desert coastal scenery. Tour agencies abound to help you explore the hinterland of ghost towns and the old nitrate mining regions. After satisfying your curiosity here bus inland to Calama and San Pedro de Atacama. In summer you can travel by bus from Calama to Salta in Argentina but the organized tour crossings to or from Uyuni, Bolivia are much more exciting.
Iquique (population ca 145,000) is a prosperous city due largely to its popular Zona Franca, or duty free zone. During the 19th century it was a major port exporting nitrates and silver. Historic buildings and museums abound. Local beaches are good for swimming and surfing. Organized tours take in many desert hinterland destinations.
Arica (population ca 165,000) is as far north as you can go in Chile; the next country is Peru! Arica has a wonderful sunny climate for it never rains, so is it perfect for R & R. Rest up awhile! The adjacent landmark hill "El Morro" (110 meters) provides an excellent view of the town and port. The southern beach resorts are plentiful and the best in Chile. The local artisans produce a huge range of ceramics, fabrics and handicrafts. Tourism is at its best, with many tours available to Lauca National Park (volcanoes, llamas, condors etc), to Azapa Valley and various archeological sites. A week at least is need for Arica!
The Atacama Desert is a major tourist region of Chile. Everyone should go there to experience its unique Martian landscape. I feel I must return and explore places I missed on previous trips!