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Travel experiences: New Zealand

by Justine Southwick

Created on: June 12, 2009

When a friend invited me along on a trek up Raglan's Mt Karioi recently, I jumped at the chance. After walking my first marathon, I was feeling on top of the world; no challenge could be too big. So I happily set out for the five-hour tramp, confident I could conquer this mountain I'd rarely heard of.

But mountains aren't easily conquered and Mt Karioi, an ancient volcano looming over Raglan from the Whale Bay side, is no exception. The Wairake track is the shortest and easiest track but we opt for the road less travelled the Mt Karioi Track. The closest of the two to Raglan, this track starts from the Te Toto Gorge car park on Whaanga Rd.

It's a couple of years since my last tramp and I soon discover regular walking and gym sessions don't constitute good tramping fitness. I'm left for dust as my companion streaks ahead, out of sight. I plod along, forcing a smile every time he glances back. It's uphill all the way but easy enough at first. The track winds through farmland up to the main ridge. Here the going gets tougher. Mt Karioi's tracks are classified as tramping ones by DOC, meaning they are challenging, have steep or muddy sections and require a good level of fitness. This warning is not to be underestimated. Halfway up the mountain we come across a muddy rise so steep a chain has been installed so people can pull themselves up. Scott hesitates for a few seconds, proving he's not quite as fearless as he'd have me believe. He is, however, decent enough not to laugh as I clumsily slither up.

The last stretch to the summit is along a ridge; we're buffeted by strong westerly winds and eager to rest. We're at the top before we know it and the panoramic views are worth the struggle. The Pacific sparkles as far as the eye can see and Te Aroha and Pirongia mountains are visible in the distance. But the wind is biting and it's too cold to rest for long.

Going down is easier but my legs soon stop co-operating and the descent becomes a battle of wills: me against the mountain. You will not beat me, I silently tell it at every step. I summon every ounce of willpower I have to keep going. If we hadn't started so late and the sun wasn't setting I'd collapse into a quivering mess and never walk again.

But I somehow make it down and we reward ourselves with dinner at the Harbourside Hotel, one of Raglan's most popular spots. It serves hearty comfort food that is just the thing after a hard day's tramping. It's so comforting that we decide we can't face the drive back to Hamilton, so instead wobble into a room at the Raglan Backpackers (www.raglanbackpackers.co.nz, rooms from $25 per person). The hostel is on the edge of Raglan harbour, just one minute's walk from the town centre, and its back lawn has views across the water to Mt Karioi. We enjoy a drink and savour our achievement as we glance in that direction, feeling very satisfied with ourselves. It's a clean, friendly and comfortable place, and - best of all - it has a spa.

We leave Raglan the next day feeling very satisfied with ourselves. Definitely a day well spent.

Learn more about this author, Justine Southwick.
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