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How to train for rock climbing

by Shen-Li Lee

Created on: May 29, 2009   Last Updated: July 09, 2009

12 Ways to Train for Rock Climbing

1. Climb More

The best training you can do for rock climbing is to climb more. As they say - "practice makes perfect". Indeed, this is exactly the case when it comes to rock climbing. One of the most common perceptions about rock climbing is that you need to be strong in order to climb well. This is probably true to a certain extent but not entirely. An excellent example to demonstrate the fallacy in this statement would be the "weaker" female climber who is able to climb better than a "stronger" male climber.

How is a "weaker" person able to climb better than a "stronger" climber? Technique, or rather being smart about the moves you make on the wall. How can you improve your technique? Through experience. And how do you gain experience? You climb more.

At some point, strength will definitely come into the picture, but guess what? The more you climb, the stronger you get purely by default. You don't have to go to a gym and pump iron. In fact, weight training at the gym is an inefficient way to train for climbing because the effect on your body is symmetrical. When you do a lat pull down, you pull equally with both arms. You don't use your legs to help you and you certainly don't have to balance on tiny footholds while you're at it. Climbing moves are rarely ever symmetrical. Additionally, time spent at the gym is time you are not spending climbing. Since our bodies can only take so much weight training (rock climbing included) a week before the risk of muscle injury arises, you lose out on the opportunity to hone your other climbing skills, such as balance, finger strength and footwork.

2. Practice Down Climbing

What is down climbing? When you are climbing at an indoor rock climbing gym, instead of just climbing up the walls, try climbing down them as well. If you want to get better at climbing then you really need to do this. Why? Down climbing helps you focus on the one thing that most climbers (especially beginner climbers) often forget - your feet. When you down climb, the first thing you think about is, "Where am I going to put my foot?"

Many climbers often underestimate how much their legs can help them when they climb. Why are your legs so important in climbing? The more weight you can transfer to your feet, the less mass you have to haul up with your arms - this is especially important if your upper body strength is poor.

Sometimes you are unable to make it to the next hold because you cannot reach it or you

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