Lean cuts of beef might seem healthful and economical, but they need special attention to achieve the flavor and succulence we enjoy.

Natural marbling of fat throughout these cuts was once popular and readily available, and while we don't want to replace the fat, we can look to tried and true cooking methods to infuse flavor and relax the muscles and tendons that cause meat to appear tough.

This is a classic recipe that uses basic cooking principles, and preparation is simple and easily managed by the busiest, most harried, cook. After gathering your ingredients, you will need no more than 20 minutes to ready the casserole for two hours of slow and undisturbed cooking in the oven.

Tenderness and flavor of the dish almost defy description. It was first served to me in an individual-sized crock topped with a large crouton and a side serving of boiled potatoes. I have cooked this stew of beef braised in Burgundy wine in a large casserole, topped with toasted croutons, with equal success.

Serves 4

Ingredients:

* 3 pounds beef (eye of the round or beef chuck works well)
* 2 large onions, sliced
* 2 medium carrots (carrots are added for their sweet flavor. Two medium carrots are sufficient; don't overdo it.)
* Bouquet Garni of 12 black peppercorns, 3 parsley springs and stems, pinch of dried thyme, and 1 bay leaf tied in a cheesecloth bag.
* One, 750ml bottle dry red wine
* 4 Tbsp peanut oil
* 2 Tbsp butter
* 20 white pearl onions
* 1/4 pound blanched bacon, cut into strips
* 2 Tbsp flour
* 3 Cloves garlic
* 10 Small mushrooms
* Salt to taste
* Freshly ground black pepper
* 1/4 cup brandy
* 1 cup croutons - Make croutons about 3-inches square. Use thick slices of French bread, crusts trimmed. Rub with garlic and fry in butter until nicely browned.

Preparation:

* Cut meat into 1-1/2 to 2-inch cube.
* Marinate overnight in a plastic bag, in the refrigerator, in mixture of onions, carrots, bouquet garni, and half the wine. Turn the bag over whenever you go into the refrigerator.
* Heat oil and butter in large casserole. Add tiny onions and cook until golden. Add bacon and continue to cook until entire mixture is golden. Remove onions and bacon, and reserve.
* Remove meat from marinade, pat dry with paper towels and brown, a few pieces at a time, in casserole.
* In a saucepan, bring marinade to a boil, reduce slightly, and strain.
* Add browned beef to casserole, sprinkle with flour and stir over high heat for 2 minutes.
* Add garlic cloves, reduced marinade, bouquet garni, the remaining wine, reserved onions and bacon, and mushrooms.
* Season with salt and pepper to taste, and cook covered in a 325-degree oven for 2 hours, or until meat is very tender.
* Transfer meat and vegetables to serving dish or individual casseroles and keep hot.
* Reduce sauce to desired consistency, remove from heat and carefully add brandy.
* Return to heat and boil for 2 additional minutes.
* Strain sauce through a fine sieve over the meat.
* Garnish with croutons.

A glass of the nice Burgundy wine used to cook the beef, a tossed green salad and a simple dessert complete the meal.

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Learn more about this author, Joan Mccord.
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