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An introduction to silversmithing

by Carol Rucker

Create a Pendant by Soldering Layers of Sterling Silver and Wire

If you already create handcrafted jewelry, a few basic soldering techniques can give you an extra creative edge. Using the simple technique of layering sterling silver sheet and wire shapes and then soldering them into place, you can create a pendant with a three dimensional feel and an artistic, one of a kind flair.

To create your pendant, you may begin the easy way by purchasing die cut shapes from a jewelry supply catalog; but for a one of a kind creation, start out with piece s you design and cut out yourself, abstract shapes perhaps or whatever shape you choose. See How to Create Simple Metalwork Jewelry for sawing techniques.

Once you have a large sterling silver piece cut in a desirable shape, a smaller one to solder on top and a coil of sterling silver wire for an added design element, your next step is soldering, using a blowtorch to fuse the separate elements into one piece.

Basic Soldering Equipment-

Some of the same catalogs that sell beading supplies also have tools catalogs with soldering equipment and supplies. Below is a list of the basics found in catalogs followed by a few less expensive options available at your local hardware store:

Blow torch- The torch is actually the brass head, connectors, hoses and gauges you attach to a tank of fuel or a dual fuel/oxygen and fuel options available:: Propane only for basic hea; Mapp Gas, for slightly higher heat; Propane/Oxygen combination, for high heat; Acetylene - for high heat; Little Torch- Propane/Oxygen , capable of a very small high heat flame

Fuel- A simple torch with a disposable propane tank should suffice for a beginning project. Propane, Oxygen and Mapp Gas are available from a hardware store. For Acetylene or other refillable tanks, check your local directory for soldering, brazing or welding supplies.

Soldering tripod-As the name implies, this is a three legged metal stand that elevates your work surface. It has a detachable wire mesh platform to hold pieces for soldering.

Soldering pan- a round metal pan mounted on a turntable to rotate as you work. It usually comes filled with heat-absorbing, lava rocks, usable as a base for annealing metal. Placing your tripod in a soldering pan protects work surfaces from heat and sparks.

Soldering blocks- used to lay out your project before soldering, absorbs heat and distributes it uniformly beneath your piece.

Striker- a metal gadget with screw-in flint pieces, a squeeze of the handle and the flint generates a spark to light your torch more safely than a match or other open flame. Available at your local hardware store.

Flux - a liquid solution you paint on your piece to tell your solder where to go. Purchase flux for use with jewelry grade solder from jewelry supply catalogs, but it may be subject to hazardous shipping surcharges.

Solder- a metal-based material that melts, cools and hardens to join pieces of metal together. There are many types of solder, Hard, Medium, Easy, Extra Easy, Solder Paste, etc. Jewelry solders have a high Silver content and are listed along with raw silver products in jewelry supply catalogs.

Jewelry solders come in thin sheets which you should cut into smaller chips. The best way to apply solder is with a small pointed tip paintbrush dipped in flux. Use the wet tip to pick up solder chips and place them where you need them.

-Hard, Medium, Easy..... why so many different solders- The names are a guide to how they work. Hard is the hardest solder to melt, requiring the highest temperature. Easy is the easiest to melt, requiring the lowest temperature.

Use all three when your piece requires more than one soldering operation. Once soldered with hard solder, pieces will not separate when you apply lower heat for medium or easy solder operations.

Pickle Solution- a caustic acid created with crystals purchased from a jewelry supply house. It stops the oxidation process initiated when you solder. Subject to hazardous shipping charges

Low Cost Soldering Options-

Use low cost options from your local hardware store to forgo the complications (and the price) of tools and materials made specifically for jewelry artists:

-Plumber's Torch- Consider learning with a plumber's torch. A basic Bernz-o-matic has a flame large enough to provide heat for most Silver jewelry making operations. It's inexpensive, your father probably has one you can borrow; and he can teach you how to light it safely.

-Plumber's solder- No lead silver-bearing solder labeled for hobbies or jewelry making and found in most hardware stores, can be used for simple soldering operations like the layering and one step soldering needed to create your silver pendant. Plumber's solder melts with a relatively low temperature. It usually comes in wire form on a spool. For jewelry projects, cut a section, hammer flat, then cut into usable chips.

Plumber's flux- liquid or paste can be purchased where you buy your plumber's torch and solder. Plumber's solder won't usually work with the flux you buy from a jewelry catalog.

Pan, Tripod and Block- Some substitutes are layers of fire brick from a home supply store, a cake pan filled with gravel and mounted on a turntable you may already have at home.

Pickle Solution-vinegar makes a cheaper, less caustic substitute.

Lighting Your Torch-

Read your torch instructions for safely attaching the head to the tank or get someone to show you a safe way to do it. So you can light your torch immediately, strike a match or pick up your striker before you turn the nozzle to release any fuel. For easier lighting, purchase a torch with a built in ignition system.

Putting Your Pendant Together

Now that you know a bit about soldering, prepare your silver pieces and decide how you want to arrange them. Let's say you've decided on a sterling silver oval with a small abstract piece soldered on top of that and a wire coil soldered onto the abstract shape. You may accomplish this by a single soldering operation with plumber's solder or easy jeweler's solder.

Make sure your pieces are clean and smooth. On the oval where you plan to solder your abstract shape and on the back of the abstract shape, paint a layer of flux. Lay out an evenly spaced pattern of solder chips on the surfaces to be joined. If you are soldering all three layers in one solder operation, add flux and solder to your silver wire coil and lay it on top.

Light your torch and begin soldering, passing the flame slowly above your piece to gradually raise the temperature. The flux will begin to bubble from the heat. Move the flame in closer when you see it dry. To keep the heat even, keep the flame moving slowly while getting closer and closer to your piece.

Once your piece reaches the proper temperature, the solder will flow (melt). You will see flowing as a gentle settling of your silver pieces or a shiny, liquid-silver halo around the soldered area.

Rinse your pendant with water, then place it in a warm pickle solution to stop the oxidation. If the silver darkened during soldering, soaking in a pickle should eliminate or minimize most of the discoloration. The rest can be sanded away.

Rinse thoroughly and dry.

Finishing Your Silver Pendant-

-Drill a hole to add a jump ring or bail.

-Sand it smooth and shiny with a fine abrasive paper

-Buff or tumble to a shine if you have the right equipment

-Read Adding Textures Letters and Cut-outs to Your Metalwork Jewelry Creations for additional ideas on finishing your pendant

You may use these same silver layering techniques to create earrings or bracelets.

Helium, Inc.
200 Brickstone Square Andover, MA 01810 USA