Preparing your home for the new kitten can be as exciting as preparing it for a new baby. For there are many that choose not to have children and instead lavish their furry loved ones with everything from a kitty obstacle-course condo to kitty's very own bedroom. Bringing home kitten, with its tiny little ears, pink nose, inch long tail, and miniature paws fills the animal lover's heart with complete joy, and anxiety.
What if kitty doesn't like it? Do I have enough toys to keep it occupied? Where should I put the litter box? What if it gets lost or crawls into some hole in the wall we forgot to seal up? The anxiety is real. And the last minute panic buying does not do wonders for the bank account either. Cats, despite what non-animal lovers think, have individual personalities which can be developed further by the environment they arrive into. Cats are their own best friend, we humans are their second best.
Check the insides of floor level cupboards for those holes that never got repaired. Kittens can paw open slightly open doors and, because they are instinctive explorers, they will find that little hole just wide enough for themselves to fit through. You also will need to spend a few days at home with kitten, so perhaps arrange it so that you can bring it home for the weekend. This will give you ample time to commit to helping kitten bond with you, and the house.
Find an unobtrusive place for the litter box. And this 'first kitten' litter-box should be half the height of a big kitty box. Even an old baking tray can be used for the first month or so to get kitten used to using one. And do try to keep it in the same place. Kitties have visual and emotional memory, if you keep switching their litter box around, they will get very annoyed and pee in the bathtub, or the sink, or on your slippers and on the floor. That is how they show their frustration. (And sometimes this is how they show you that they are not feeling well.) Please also be aware that for the first week or so you will need to help kitten to the litter box! Do not expect it to arrive already knowing how to use one. To train mine I first started out by putting it in the tray, and gently taking its paw I would scratch in the litter. Do not be swayed by the sweet confused look on its face! Then I would watch kitten carefully out on the floor, sniffing low to the ground in various places. As soon as it started to squat, I would scoop fur-ball up and place it in the tray. Again, be patient as kitten still doesn't quite 'get it'. After a few times, they will get the idea. And be forgiving if kitten does get a little pee on the carpet. I do say 'no' when it happens and as I am lifting it to the box. Have a little carpet cleaner handy and get the pee up quickly because if they can smell it, they will associate that with being the place to pee.
Remember to clean the litter-box out regularly. This will avoid kitten getting fed up with no room to do its 'business' and it will seek elsewhere to go. Getting mad at kitty for doing this is ridiculous, a kitty can not clean their own litter box. Another option is to install a kitty-door so that eventually he/she can do some of their business outside.
Toys!
The funniest thing is to watch kitten sizing itself up against a catnip mouse with its tiny little furry back arched out of instinct, the silent hissing it makes trying to be tough! Try to avoid toys with long strings and those with aluminum foil. I have heard many sad tales about kittens getting themselves wrapped up in the string and strangling themselves. Or they will chew on it and swallow it, which can have devastating consequences. Cats can not stand the sound of aluminum foil being crumpled, perhaps it is the frequency of the sound that hurts their ears. Little round twine or velvet balls, mice, and a scratching post should be fine for kitten to start out with.
Collars?
I would not suggest a collar on a kitten until it is at least 9 months or older. I put one on my kitten, left the room for five minutes, and when I returned, Princess had gotten her lower jaw wedged open under the collar. It was a horrible sight, made more so by the panic of - what if I hadn't been here! If kitten is not going to be going outside for some time then avoid a collar until outside time is decided. If you absolutely must have a collar on kitten then seek the advice of the local pet shop or your vet. And while you are at the vet, do not forget to schedule a yearly check-up for your kitty!
Food?
Dry and soft kitten food is the best for the first year or so. I always mix the soft with the dry because soft food gets wedged up in the gums and sits there. The dry stuff helps to alleviate it getting caught and keeps little teeth clean. Use a top grade kitten food at this time as it will help with dander control and healthy growth during the early stages. And don't panic when kitten loses their first tooth! This happens just like we lose ours. Always have fresh water available. It is not advised to give them regular milk on a daily basis, this milk is difficult for them to digest. For a rare treat, I would pour a half a teaspoon of cream over their food or buy the designated cat-milk in the cat food section.
Nails.
Kittens nails will be very sharp. This is why it is important to have a scratching post- with a hint of catnip as you do not want too much catnip for such a small kitten. You can also file them down gently, this is also a good way for you to bond with kitty. Or have your vet or local pet grooming shop file them for you. Having a scratch post will also deter them from scratching on your furniture.
And as you would with any new addition, avoid leaving disinfectants around, wipe up any cleaning product spills, do not spray cleaning products near kitten or kitten food. A kitten is not just for mild entertainment, they make wonderful companions and help to relieve the stress of the day. Please treat your kitten respectfully and he/she will be with you a very long time, sometimes a lot longer than your latest romantic squeeze!