by Laurie Kaiser

Created on: May 15, 2009   Last Updated: May 28, 2009

An outpost for the Bohemian set since the early 20th century, Provincetown, Massachusetts, has morphed into a premier gay-friendly tourist destination.

Whether you arrive by plane, car or ferry, you'll feel as if you've reached land's end; in fact, you will have made it to the outermost point of Cape Cod. Surrounded by water, this once-sleepy fishing village offers a bounty of fresh seafood, as well as water-related recreation, unique galleries and shops, theater and other nightlife.

A zany combination of history and histrionics awaits you in P-town, as locals call it. During the annual Carnival Week in August, drag queens in go-go boots parade down Commercial Street in the shadow of the 252-foot Pilgrim Monument, commemorating the Pilgrims' first landing in the New World in 1620. For an overview of local history, visit the compact Provincetown Museum (www.pilgrim-monument.org) at the monument's base. Then climb the 116 steps to the top for a spectacular 360-degree view of Provincetown, Cape Cod Bay and the Cape Cod National Seashore.

The treacherous waters along the Outer Cape conceal a graveyard for many a shipwreck, including that of the pirate ship Whydah Gally. Learn about Capt. Black Sam Bellamy and his ill-fated vessel at the Whydah Museum on MacMillan Wharf (www.whydah.com).

If you're looking for calmer (and warmer) waters in which to swim, check out Herring Cove Beach within the 44,000-acre Cape Cod National Seashore, managed by the National Park Service. Situated along Cape Cod Bay, Herring Cove Beach lacks the waves and undertow often found on the Atlantic side. Be aware, however, that the northwestern half is a nude beach, not sanctioned but largely ignored by the National Park Service. Herring Cove Beach offers parking for $15 per day, rest rooms, showers and changing facilities and beach wheelchairs. Pedestrians, bicyclists and motorcyclists pay a $3 entrance fee. Stop in at the Province Lands Visitors Center on Race Point Road off Route 6 for more information on hiking and biking trails within the National Seashore (www.nps.gov/caco).

Whale watching has replaced whale hunting as big business on Cape Cod. Provincetown is a great launching point for a whale-watch cruise because of its proximity (only six miles) to Stellwagen Bank, feeding ground of humpbacks, finbacks, minkes and other whales. The Dolphin Fleet (www.whalewatch.com) offers daily excursions in summer at a cost of $39 for adults and $31 for children ages 5 to 12.

Provincetown

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