by Rana Williamson

Created on: May 14, 2009

Bleaching hair is a chemical process for lightening color. While often performed at home, the products used in the procedure are harsh and can cause long-term damage. A developer with an oxidizing agent (normally hydrogen peroxide) interacts with an alkalizing agent to raise the scales on the outer layer of the hair shaft. The alkalizing agent combines with the hydrogen peroxide and diffuses into the cortex at the center of the hair shaft, where it breaks down the melanin responsible for color and replaces it with whatever tinting agent has been used. The new color remains in the hair shaft for six to twelve weeks until growth makes a repeat treatment necessary.

Why bleach?

There is only one reason people choose to bleach their hair - they want to go blond. (It's also a popular way to hide the first hints of graying hair.) The degree of success varies according to the original hair color. It's harder to bleach red hair than dark hair and extremely dark hair should be bleached in stages to avoid damage. Normally with repeated bleaching, black hair will transition to red, orange, yellow, and finally white. Tints are added to bleaching solutions to achieve a more pleasing shade to the lightened hair.

What is done, exactly?

Whether performed at home or in the salon, the bleaching procedure is essentially the same. The chemicals are prepared as per the directions and applied starting at the back of the head, working around the skull, and then to the top of the head with the supplied applicator brush. It's important that the application be distributed as evenly as possible.

A plastic cap is then placed on the head for a specified period. Leaving the solution in too long will burn the hair and cause both breakage and hair loss. When the appropriate amount of time has passed, the bleach is rinsed out, taking care to keep the chemicals away from the skin. A mild shampoo is then applied, followed by a second rinse to make sure all the bleaching agent has been removed.

If the bleaching is performed at home and doesn't turn out well, don't try again on your own. Take all the materials and instructions from the kit to a hair care professional who can take the appropriate corrective measures. (At-home kits generally cost less than $20, while professional work runs from $85 to $150.)

What can go wrong?

Beyond the potential to burn the hair, or to cause breaking and hair loss, repeated treatments will alter the structure of the hair. The scales of the cuticle become permanently raised, thus making the hair more porous and less able to accept bleaching agents in the future. Additionally, bleaching dries the hair, so moisturizing is essential to prevent a dull appearance and brittle texture. (Split ends are a major complaint with bleached hair.)

Also, wet combing will be more difficult. It's important not to tug, but to gently work out any tangles. It's a good idea to de-tangle the hair before shampooing and not to bunch up the hair, but rather to wash the strands in straight, downward motions. Allow the water to pour straight down over the head when rinsing. The less strain placed on wet, bleached hair the better.

A Word of Caution

While going blond may be considered fun and daring, remember that bleaching involves applying harsh chemicals that can permanently change the structure of your hair. It may be better to go to a pro who understands the procedure and who can assess whether or not your hair is in good condition to start with. Hair can be extremely fragile. Know what you're doing before you bleach and find out how to keep your hair in the best possible shape afterwards.

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