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that they got to choose where to stay as obviously they were on a tight budget and like the groupies that we were, we would tag on. So, rucksacks packed up again and thinking I felt sure that if the accommodation was alright for them, it would be OK for us, off we set. The first hostel we located using the traveller's bible was mysteriously keeping their accommodation to themselves. I was pleased. It was in a mean looking building with a mean little man who spoke to us through a small and mean looking sliding hatch. It was a world away from our smiley receptionist at the hotel who told us she was 'happy' to see us whilst also slightly bizarrely declaring her love for melon. The next hostel was in an even meaner looking building. But worse still it had a huge notice on the door saying that rooms were not available, that this was not a hostel, that they could not legally let rooms, that they did not have any insurance should they mistakenly let any rooms and that we should probably all die even if we so much thought about renting a room. It was just then, on our second reading of the dire consequences that a bright young girl swept us through the door with the cheerful promise of, 'I find you room, lady. No problem.' We got as far as the lift which also carried the same threat of death by room renting before we came to our senses. Well, at least Catherine did I was still thinking that this came under the heading of jolly capers and is what 'we backpackers' and brave mothers did. We headed back out onto the street pausing only to nod to the doorman who had seen it all before, all day and every day.

It was after that, we found ourselves on the ferry to Kowloon which those that know felt would give us more accommodation options. Travel bible at hand again, we found the delightful Chungmin Mansions situated in busy Nathan Road. I had read about this place whilst sifting through the many forums on Hong Kong and it was difficult to imagine what type of place it could be with talk of 'just start at the top and work your way down until you find rooms that you like.' Dodging the brigade of Rolex sellers who more than made up for their lack of genuine items by their numbers and enthusiasm (if there is a look that denotes 'I badly need a watch' then obviously we had it big style), we paused at the entrance to this magnificent building. That prompted a seamless change of touts as we were then implored to take up the offer of what once was esteemed accommodation.

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