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and make a number of stops en route; the first two are stops for optional activities, one of which is a canopy tour - however, most people skip past these and head for the last couple of stops. Stay on the bus until the end of the line and you'll pop out at the business end of the falls - there are two restaurants here (one buffet, one fast-food), a gift shop and a lift running down to one of the main viewing platforms, around which the torrential falls thunder.

However, starting at the climax of the experience seems a bit of a mistake; get off the bus a stop earlier (opposite the Hotel das Cataratas) and walk the mile or so to the aforementioned amenities at the mouth of the falls. The scenery is more striking this way; lush, tropical forest surrounds the path and numerous vistas of more isolated falls and islands abound. The trail is well-maintained and accessible for people of all fitness levels - however, for those wanting a more up-close experience, one of the highlights of the Park is the boardwalk a short distance before the Garganta del Diablo - The Devil's Throat, the horseshoe-shaped head of the falls which is the highest, most dramatic of the cataracts. The boardwalk, a short descent from the main trail, extends out into the midst of the swirling, churning waters, and at its end, places those who stand upon it at the heart of a 300-degree panorama of waterfalls. Spray rises from the cascades and drifts across the rift - you will get soaked, so consider waterproofs for this section, and at least be very careful with cameras and the like when taking the indisputably stunning photos. Often those coming back from the walkway will happily relinquish plastic ponchos, as they're not needed anywhere else along the way - take advantage if you can and pass on the favour!

Looking left from the head of the walkway, the scale and intensity of the Garganta del Diablo is quite incredible, and the roaring that's been in your ears for the last half hour reaches a thunderous intensity. Apparently, there used to be rowing-boat excursions running above the Falls, such was the desire of visitors to get close to the drop. This was all well and good until one boat got a little too close to the edge and disappeared off it. Suffice to say, said tours were brought to an end, and boats now only run below the falls - standing with the might of the so-called Throat hurling water into your squinted eyes, it's apparent that such dicey endeavours belonged to a rather less health-and-safety

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