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Via Montenapoleone may be home to Milan's posh and over-priced fashion houses, but the more modest areas of the industrious and chic Italian city offer decent deals and cute collectibles and souvenirs for the thrifty gift shopper. Economical shopping at the open-air markets is a fun place to buy inexpensive items in one of Europe's costliest cities.

In fact, in all of Italy the 'market' is practically an institution, where shoppers coax and congregate in the blocked off streets, as vendors proposition prices to passerbys interested in buying everything from souvenirs, to shoes, to sugar.

Living in Milan, I actually enjoy going to the market, which offers an atmosphere of versatility, selection and flexibility, and regularly purchase fresh produce and prosciutto at a much lower cost and at a much higher quality than conventional supermarkets.

While there are weekday and weekend 'mini-markets' all over Milan, for the gift shopper and tourist, here is where you are likely to find the most stylish stuff to take home with you.

One-Stop Shopping

Viale Papiniano is Milan's biggest multi-purpose market. Get off at St. Agostino stop on the green (MM2) subway line, and you are in the middle of the city's biggest bargain exposition. Open on Saturday and Tuesday morning, this area is always full. The most versatile of markets, you can find everything from plants to paper plates, as well as a colourful assortment of clothing, vintage shoes, clothing and accessories.

Antiquarian Acquisitions

Known as the 'Fiera di Sinigaglia', this market specializes in all kinds of collectibles and second hand clothing to suit every shopper's style. Over 400 merchants spread across Via D'Annunzio. Next to the Porta Genova stop along the green subway line (MM2), merchants display antiques of every genre, country and flavour: furniture, ethnic crafts, books, stamps, cameras, textiles and perfumes. As a bonus, enjoy a nice pleasant walk along Milan's great 'naviglio' (artifical water canal which was used to transport marble needed to construct Milan's magnificent Duomo), and check out some of the charming cafes and shops nearby.

Bookworm Bargains

Every second Sunday of each month, Piazza Diaz, along yellow subway line Missori (MM3), becomes a bookstore bonanza specializing in old, rare, used and out-of-print books in every language. Foreign book vendors are counted among the 100+ on site. This market is the biggest book fair in Europe, offering thousands of almost obsolete titles hard to find elsewhere.

Craftsman's Showcase

Brera, a quaint quarter of Milan, holds a mini-market and Milan's very first and oldest, in operation since 1981. On every third Sunday of each month (excluding August, when nearly all Italians head for the sea, not the city!), this section of town sells dainty decorative objects, like porcelain, hand-made glass, delicate art and jewellery. Less crowded than other markets, the number of venders here is limited, making shopping more peaceful for leisurely strollers. You will have to walk from red line (MM1) Cairoli stop to Via Brera, but the pleasant ambiance and the Sforzesco Castle are well worth the trip.

Designer Deals

Milan is the center of style, and even price-conscious fashionistas can get cheap clothes on a budget. The fashion market is found on Via Fauche, where prices are slashed for every type of attire. No-name belts, blouses and buttons are available here as well as top-line ones, so, for the best selection, arrive early with a keen eye every Tuesday morning and Saturday. To get here, take tram (streecar) 14 which leaves from Via Torino, in front of the landmark Duomo, in the center of town.

Some extra market tips and general advice about shopping in Italy:

*Arrive early. Even though they are open in the afternoon, markets are crowded places, with hundreds of people looking for bargains. So set your alarm in the a.m for the best selection.

*Hang onto your purse. In crowded areas, pick-pocketing and purse snatches are an unfortunate and common reality. Keep your wallet in an inside pocket and leave your credit cards and documents at the hotel.

*Try and give exact the exact amount, and don't carry big bills. Counterfeit money is another common problem in open air markets, so give exact change when you can, and don't break big bills for small purchases.

*Don't accept the first price quoted. Haggling and bargaining is part of getting deals and is a refined skill in marketplace frequenting. To effectively bargain, don't appear too interested in an item and casually propose a price about 15-20% lower than that listed, and see if the vendor agrees. If the vendor refuses, raise the price slightly, until both you and the vendor are satisfied with the price. If you buy multiple items at a single stand, the vendor will usually give you a discount as well. Be sure to point out if there are any flaws in the item as well, for extra savings.

*Inspect the item for quality. Granted, you can't expect high quality goods for a fraction of the price, but if you see something you like, ask the for a boxed version of the item. Take items from the back of the pile, where they are less manhandled and in better condition.

*Look at expiration dates, as many items sold at markets are older, excess stock from stores, or are sold week after week at the same market. Many perishable items have expiration dates, so don't buy old stuff.

*Take your time and visit all the stands before buying anything. Many merchants sell the exact same stuff, so if you buy the first thing you see, another merchant at the end of the street may be selling the same item for less.

*Lastly, patience is a virtue in marketplace shopping. Be prepared to scour every corner of the stand for that second shoe, and lightly fend off surounding shoppers grabbing hot-selling items. Get ready to be gently jostled about, as everyone is as deal-determined as you are.

Learn more about this author, Paola Fanutti.
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