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Tips for eating cheap in Paris

by Claire Caterer

Created on: April 01, 2009

You've finally saved up enough for that dream vacation to the world's most exciting city. You've got your hotel reservations, your plane tickets, your must-see itinerary. You're staying as long as you possibly can afford (aren't you? There's a lot to see). But just yesterday you checked online and found that pesky euro crawling up the back of the dollar like a monkey. And right away your travel budget's in trouble. That hotel room you reserved for 150 euros a night would've cost you $199.50 back in June, but now it's running $213. That smarts.

So unless you're willing to shorten your trip, you'll need to do some budget-cutting. But it need not be as painful as you fear. The first item to reduce should be your food.

Before you start to cry ("But I'm in Paris!"), be comforted: Parisians eat well without spending a mint. It's tourists who spend the big bucks. You can avoid falling into that pricey trap by following these tips:

BEWARE THE HOTEL PETIT DEJEUNER.
The French eat light at breakfast. Many hotels will charge 7 or 8 euros (that's around $10, remember) for a croissant and coffee. Bakeries are in every neighborhood; don't be afraid to wander down to the corner and buy a baguette or a couple of croissants for half the hotel price. Don't speak French? Point, and say "s'il vous plait" and "merci." Those two phrases work wonders.

EAT BEFORE YOU TOUR.
Don't get stuck being ravenous at pricey, tourist-trap cafes en face de Notre-Dame. For that view, you'll pay $6 for a Coke. Instead, opt for the friendly, cheaper places near your hotel. Still craving the view of Notre-Dame? Stop for a coffee or an ice cream instead of lunch or dinner. The nice thing about sidewalk cafes is that you're allowed to linger as long as you want.

BE ADVENTUROUS.
Your guidebook raves about Chez Tres Chere and Superchef (no, these aren't real places). Of course you want to check them out. But if you're in the City of Lights for a few days, make your own discoveries as well. Browse the menus posted on the restaurant windows and take a chance on the little Moroccan place around the corner. One tip: Start at la Place de la Contrescarpe (metro: Cardinal Lemoine, 5th arrondissement). The little streets branching out from this charming square have restaurants galore, many of them reasonably priced.

SHOP THE MARCHE AND THE SUPERMARCHE.
Look for, or ask at your hotel for, the nearest Ed or Monoprix (moh-noh-pree). These chain groceries have good chocolate, cheese, and late-night munchies like crackers. Produce is usually local and quite good. Load up for a pique-nique at a fraction of restaurant prices, and in the bargain, you'll get to sample how the natives eat.

The marche is the open-air farmers' market. Every neighborhood has one, and your hotel will know when and where the local one is open. One not to miss: Place Maubert (metro: Maubert-Mutualite), open Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday from 7 a.m. to midafternoon. It's also a short walk to Notre-Dame. Nothing beats olives, cheese, fruit, and baguettes from the marche.

SAVE UP FOR A REALLY GREAT DINNER (THEN MAKE IT LUNCH).
At Taillevent, one of Paris's most renowned restaurants, the tasting menu runs 140 euros per person. Lunch costs 70 euros per person. An exorbitant lunch? Perhaps. But add wine and the dinner may cost more than your hotel.

You will probably want to splurge on a fantastic dinner in any case. Nothing wrong with that; you're on vacation. The key is to plan ahead and know your budget before you go. That way you can enjoy the delicious side of Paris without breaking the bank.

Learn more about this author, Claire Caterer.
Click here to send this author comments or questions.

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