by Michelle Wilkinson

Created on: March 31, 2009

There is nothing very individual about fashion. Fashion is changed and defined by individuals, and so even 'individuality' could be seen to involve conforming to certain expectations basically a need to stand out from the crowd. Those who do not want to conform to 'mainstream' fashion generally end up conforming to a certain look which prevails in their own social circles, no matter how quirky their appearance might be to wider society. They may choose to wear the most extreme options of clothing and still remain within the parameters of what is considered acceptable within their own peer group. Individuality and individual expression clearly has to be more than just about the clothing.

The fashion industry is primarily driven by the need to make money, not just by the need for fashion designers to express themselves. The whole punk movement in the 1970s was fuelled by individuality. Disaffected teenagers were fed up with what mainstream society had to offer, and went underground, forming their own bands and record labels. Fashion came to be an important way of making a statement to the rest of the society that these punks' were not prepared to accept unquestioningly what they were being told to do by society.

Initially the whole concept behind punk fashion was based on self-expression and creativity. The movement aimed to encourage people to make their own clothes, and avoid conforming to mainstream society's regulations. As with anything, though, a uniform starts to develop. People turned up to the clubs and saw their fellow punks with safety pins in their clothing, wearing shredded-up torn jeans; bondage gear; t-shirts with offensive statements or with controversial images; or even black bin liners. Soon the punks had their very own livery with the spiked up hair, military boots, and an assortment of clothing, individuality meant conforming.

Most of the clothing which defined the punk look came from the designs of Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren, as well as from what the popular punk rockers of the day were wearing. Punk liked to sell itself as being about individuality and self-expression, but was really just a business like any other. Punk was, and still is, defined by its defiance against 'society' and the labels given to people and objects. In reality, that is the message that sells punk the belief that individuals can stand out from what is perceived to be the norm, though in actual fact amongst their own social circles they are the norm.

The idea that people need to dress in a certain way to express their individuality is therefore flawed in a society where virtually anything goes. There may be certain contexts in which people have to conform to a certain look, such as in the workplace, and so many people do not have a choice to express themselves. Artists and writers may find it easier to wear unconventional clothing because they are slightly on the fringe of society anyway, often looking in on the world rather than just being part of it, but ultimately the majority of people end up conforming in one way or another.

Learn more about this author, Michelle Wilkinson.
Click here to send this author comments or questions.