by Diana Coode

Created on: March 14, 2009   Last Updated: March 15, 2009

Egypt - Alexandria

The morning train from Cairo to Alexandria jolted and swayed, seemingly unable to pick up speed. But for twenty Egyptian pounds - less than $3 - there was no cause for complaint so, we settled back to enjoy the three hour ride across the delta land of the Nile. Outside the winter landscape lay lifeless and drab, though the scenes were not without charm as we watched biblical characters in long robes, riding side saddle on donkeys alongside the satellite dishes and shiny cars.

Going to Alexandria was something of a mission. My father had spent most of his war years in the great city and had never been back, yet he still held fond memories of that time. So our plan was to take photos, ride the trams and return with some souvenirs. We had chosen to stay at the Crillon, one of the city's original pensions from the 1930's, which still had the original clanking lift and Art Deco windows and marble staircase, despite many years of decay and neglect. The view from our room though was magnificent, with a balcony overlooking the deep blue Mediterranean Sea.

Our first objective was the trams. Where did they run to? Which ones were which? The Crillon was very central and there were lines nearby running the length of the city, parallel with the Corniche and the sea: Alexandria and the Mediterranean are intrinsically linked. Rather than try and decipher the Arabic numerals, it was easier to simply jump on the next tram that came and go to the end of the line, especially as the flat fee for any ride is only cents. There were few passengers and an elderly gentleman pointed out some of the sights: St Marks College where Omar Sharif was a student, the Greek old peoples home and the racecourse at the Sporting Club. We saw large character buildings lining the street, a relic from the city's colonial past, with delicate and decorative architectural features, carpets hung from balconies, signs for dentists and doctors galore, occasional splashes of colourful plants and horse drawn carriages clip clopping down the streets. It was a wonderful first morning out.

Alexandria is famous for its long and chequered history, including the Pharos which was one of the Seven Wonders of the World. This great lighthouse stood where today Fort Qaitbey stands and our walk there, along the seafront, was especially enjoyable in the late afternoon sun. There were a lot of people at the fort as it was Friday, as well as stalls and ice cream sellers, and we started chatting to a very friendly

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