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In far Northern California, amidst vast forests and world-famous trout rivers, the small town of McCloud on the eastern shoulder of Mount Shasta is in the midst of a transformation. McCloud has always had a certain charm. When you enter the historic part of town you're greeted by tiny houses sitting shoulder to shoulder that were part of the company-owned lumber mill town. On the historic main street you'll see buildings that were obviously constructed in the same era, shaped by the same mind. The real discoveries come when you stop to explore the ways people have reshaped those buildings in the decades since Mother McCloud relinquished its grip and sold the town and the buildings off.

McCloud's historic Main Street, once home to the general store, and its side streets are now home to a collection of new shops that recall some of the town's history. Visitors will find the Brown Dog Gallery, adding a big boost to McCloud's growing art scene. Opened last summer by artist Claudia Ellis, the Brown Dog shows a mix of talented local artists along with several artists from her old stomping grounds of Mendocino. Settled into the old Post Office, the Gallery offers up an arrangement of eye-catching artwork, hand-hewn doors and furniture, and hand-made textiles.

The old mercantile building, owned by the Mathis family, recently opened 11 inviting, comfortable rooms as the McCloud River Mercantile Inn. Uniquely redesigned under the careful eye of Darleen Mathis, these distinctive rooms are a delight simply to tour, let alone stay in. At the north end of the building, a dark-toned room dubbed the Shasta Winter Room features a two-person tub where one lucky bather can relish the view of Mount Shasta through the dormer window while leaning back into a bubbly paradise.

The opening of the upstairs of the Merc compliments the previous work downstairs, where the McCloud Book Gallery, Sugar Pine Candy Shoppe, Chocolate Caf, White Mountain Soda Fountain and McCloud River Mercantile offer an interesting mix of old-style gifts, delectable treats and local art. The Soda Fountain reopened last July with an all-new look that includes an old-fashioned counter with swiveling stools where the summer menu includes 8 kinds of ice cream sundaes. White Mountain serves breakfast and dinner, and stays open through the evening for dessert. Perhaps the most eye-catching is the "Falls Sundae" that boasts vanilla ice cream covered in apple pie filling, crumbled piecrust and fresh crme. The work in

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