by Norman A. Rubin

Created on: February 21, 2009

One would ask What is Surfing? The answer is that surfing is a surface water sport of riding a long, flat board on the crest of a large ocean wave. It is an exciting sport that demands skill, a good sense of balance, quick reflexes, and an idea of wave motions. Surfing can also face a breaking wave through the use of kneeboards, kayak, surf skis and even one's own bodies. (Windsurfing is the new sport of riding the waves through wind power.)

When the explorer Captain James Cook, commander of the frigate Dolphin, first visited Tahiti in 1778, he found that surfing was quite a popular sport among the islanders. He watched as the natives held surfing contests and awarded prizes to the winners. Surfing was a central part of ancient Polynesian culture, and the chief was the most skilled wave rider in the community with the best board made from the best tree. (The islands of the Pacific are still one of the best places for surfing because of the giant waves that break along the shores.)

The only equipment needed for surfing is a surfboard, which is manufactured by durable material is shaped something like an ironing board. The best surfboards are made of polyurethane foam covered with a coating of fiber glass and resin. Most boards are about ten feet long and two feet wide and they weigh from twenty to twenty-five pounds (approx.). A small tail fin (skegs) attached to bottom of the surfboard makes is easier to control and maneuver. (Additional equipment used in surfing includes a leash to stop a surfer's board from washing to shore after a "wipeout", and to prevent it from hitting other surfers, surf wax and/or traction pads to keep a surfer's feet from slipping off the deck of the board.)

A surfer starts out by lying on his stomach on the board and using his hands and arms to paddle out to where the waves began to break. Then, the surfer looks out quickly to the sea and waits for the approach of a large wave. When the wave begins to near, the surfer get into a kneeling position on the board and begins to paddle the water with his hands. As the board begins to slide down the front of the wave, the surfers stands up. He puts one foot in front of him, and the other behind, which makes it possible to steer the board by shifting his weight on his rear foot from left to right.

No beginner should try surfing unless he is a good swimmer and has expert instruction; many beginners train for surfboard riding by first doing some body surfing. A body surfer swims to the top of the wave, and let the wave push him to shore; this helps a beginner to develop a sense of balance. About.com Guide to Surfing you will find all the information about surfing, whether you are new to surfing or even a contest surfer wanting to sharpen their skills. http://surfing.about.com/od/learnhowtosurfadvanced/u /LearntoSurf.htm

Today surfing has become global sport that is recognized at the highest levels of amateur and professional competition. Australia, Brazil, Hawaii, South Africa and the US are often associated with surfing, but good surfing locations can be found around the world, from the coast of Spain to the beaches of Japan, even in Switzerland

Note: Surfing Magazine http://www.surfingthemag.com/ has news, reviews, surfing sites, competitions, surfing equipment and all the other pertinent information needed by surfers.

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