by Belinda Beasley

Created on: February 18, 2009

Sewing a blind hem stitch creates a nice, professional finish to handmade garments. There are several types of hem stitches that can be chosen, but the blind hem stitch is one of the easiest, although it can sound intimidating. Many sewing machines today have the blind hem stitch as a built in stitch, but quite often the directions for folding the fabric correctly can be confusing. Although I have sewn the blind hem stitch on the sewing machine, I still prefer to sew this stitch by hand, and even though this particular stitch might be considered difficult, it's really quite easy.

The blind hem stitch can be used to hem sleeves and skirts. In order to prevent fraying of the fabric and also to create a nice look, make sure the raw edges are finished. One of the best ways to finish the raw edges would be to serge finish them prior to sewing construction. Overcasting or zigzagging over the raw edges would also be acceptable.

Before sewing the blind hem stitch, the hem needs to be measured and pressed. A seam gauge is a very handy tool to measure hems accurately. The slider on the seam gauge can be placed at the finished edge of the fabric or on the fold of the fabric when the hem is turned up to be measured. I like to place the top of the seam gauge at the folded edge of the hem, and the little slider at the finished edge of the hem. Press the hem all around and this will make sewing the blind hem stitch easier. I also like to place straight pins above the finished edge. Placing the straight pins in the hem is a personal preference, but it also prevents the fabric from shifting when sewing.

Turn the finished edge of the fabric up approximately 1/4 inch and take a small stitch on the wrong side of the skirt or sleeve. Then take a small stitch in the folded edge of the hem that you have turned up. The wrong side of the fabric will be facing you as you sew. Continue taking a stitch in the garment, and then the fold of the hem that you just turned up, working around the sleeve or skirt until you come back to the starting point, where you will tie off the thread to secure it. This is very easy to do by creating a loop with your thread and running the threaded needle through it a couple of times before cutting the thread.

If your sewing machine has a built in blind hem stitch, you also have to fold your fabric so that there is a bit of a "lip" that is created when the fabric is folded correctly in order to sew the blind hem stitch.Be sure to check the manual for your particular machine for the directions for stitch length and width settings, the proper presser foot to use when sewing the blind hem stitch, and also the correct way to fold the fabric.

Sewing the blind hem stitch by machine is faster than sewing by hand, but I find it easier, and quite relaxing to sew the blind hem stitch by hand.

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